How Much Does Tree Care Cost

Written by Rob Schneider and published on https://hipages.com.au/.

Hiring a professional to trim just one tree can cost $80 to $1,000+, with $250 to $500 being the typical price range for tree trimming. If the trimming is straightforward, you could be quoted $80 for a small tree under 25 feet tall, or $175 for a medium-sized tree 25 to 50 feet, and $300 to $1,000 for a big tree over 50 feet. Keep in mind that those prices cover a one-time service for just one tree. If you’ve got several trees around your house that need trimming, the bill will go up accordingly.

2020 How Much Does an Arborist Cost?

How much does an arborist cost? Arborists have many skills, ranging from tree consulting, tree reports to tree surgery, or removing trees from properties. Here’s what you need to know about what arborists do and how much their services will cost.

What does an arborist do?

Arborists can do almost anything related to trees. Some of the jobs arborists typically do include:

• Tree consulting and tree reports
• Tree removal
• Stump grinding
• Tree pruning
• Tree surgery
• Log splitting
• Root management

Each of these jobs is a separate service and will come with a separate cost. For example, if you want to have a tree removed, it probably won’t include stump grinding or stump removal.

Root management includes cutting roots back or creating a barrier so a root cannot impede on a driveway or house slab. Log splitting can be done if you have a wood fireplace and want the timber for burning. Tree pruning and tree surgery are slightly different. Tree pruning can remove limbs that overhang the house or dead limbs, while tree surgery involves removing diseased limbs to keep the tree healthy.

In general, arborists charge around $70 per hour, but their hourly rate may not reflect the cost of the job. The cost will depend on other factors and the number of workers who need to be on the job. If other equipment is needed, such as a truck hoist to reach tree branches, it will cost extra. Truck hoists usually cost around $170 per hour and the hoist may be needed for longer than one hour.

How much does tree consulting and reports cost?

Tree consulting and tree reports are two services an arborist can provide. A tree consultation will give information about a variety of things:

• Is the tree diseased and can the disease be cured?
• Advice on what types of trees to plant.
• Valuation reports tell how much a tree is worth.
• Public liability and public safety reports can tell you if a tree poses a danger to the public or a neighboring property.
• Root mapping can find out if a tree’s roots pose a danger to underground pipes or a home’s foundation
• Tree surveys help identify how to best maintain trees.

Tree reports can be a little different than a tree consultation, though the terms are often used interchangeably. Tree reports may be submitted to the council if you want to remove a tree from your property. Many trees in Australia are protected, but different councils protect different trees. A tree report can identify the tree and submit reasons for its removal to the council.

In general, an arborist consultation or report will cost:

• $75 to $100 for one to five trees
• $25 for each additional tree
• $35 for submission to council fee

The cost may vary depending on circumstances, but these are the basic costs for a consultation or report.

How much does tree removal cost?

Tree removal will depend on a variety of factors:

• The size of the tree
• The condition of the tree
• The location of the tree
• Ease or difficulty of access
• Needed safety precautions
• Transportation and tipping fees

A large tree will cost more because it has to be cut from the top down. If the tree is in poor condition, extra steps will be needed to ensure safety. The location of the tree is an important factor because trees that hang over neighboring properties or over a roof will need to be cut carefully and branches cannot be allowed to fall. If a tree overhangs a roof, for instance, the branches will need to be secured so they don’t fall on the roof. If any safety precautions are needed, they will factor in the cost.

Because of the complexity of tree removal, the cost can be anywhere from $300 for a simple job to $10,000 or even more. An arborist will have to inspect the tree before they can give a quote. While $10,000 can seem excessive, it can be necessary in some cases when a large tree must be removed from the top down and branches cannot fall to the ground.

How much does stump removal cost?

Like tree removal, stump removal will depend on the size of the job, access problems, and other factors. Special stump grinding equipment is used, but an extensive root system may also require some digging. Stump removal can cost up to $800 or more depending on the project. On average, stump removalists charge around $35 per hour. A small job may only take two or three hours to complete. A larger job can take much longer and if more than one stump needs to be removed, that will factor into the cost as well. On average, stump removal costs between $350 and $800, but smaller jobs will cost less.

Keep in mind that stump removal is not usually included in the cost of tree removal. If you want both, ask for quotes for both tree removal and stump removal. It can save you money because the arborist will come with equipment for both jobs instead of having to return to do the stump removal.

Also, remember that stump grinding and root removal maybe two different jobs. Stump grinding usually involves getting rid of the exposed stump, while root removal involves taking out the whole root system. Root removal can cost more than stump grinding, but an arborist will have to inspect the tree before they can give a quote.

How much do tree pruning and tree surgery cost?

As with everything an arborist does, tree pruning and tree surgery will depend on the size of the tree. For smaller trees, they may charge an hourly rate of $35, but you will also need to pay for travel and setup time. For larger trees, the cost can be much higher, with costs between $500 and $2000. The reason for the high costs can be because the arborist will have to:

• Climb the tree to remove branches
• Take personal safety precautions
• Remove branches without letting them drop to the ground

There may also be accessibility problems and other factors that affect the cost. If tree surgery is needed, you may also have to pay for an initial consultation.

Choosing an Arborist

Arborists do not require licensing, so you should be careful when choosing an arborist. Their job can be dangerous to the public and the arborist, so should carry public liability insurance and personal insurance. They should also hold a Certificate II or III in Horticulture (Arboriculture) and be a member of a recognized organization such as Arboriculture Australia.

The arborist should be well established in the area and have a good safety record. They may be able to supply you with references. Check their references and find out if the arborist knows what they’re doing and has a good safety record. Choose the best arborist you can find, especially if you have large trees that need pruning or removing. An expert will be able to do the job safely and efficiently. Don’t trust any job to an amateur.

*Costs and prices in this article are indicative and should only be used as a guide. They also vary locally and are subject to market forces.

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How Do They Trim Really Tall Trees?

Written by Todays Homeowner and published on https://todayshomeowner.com/.

Tall trees are magnificent structures that provide ample shade, as well as a large habitat for many varieties of animals. Like all trees, tall trees must be trimmed and pruned occasionally to keep them in optimal health, and also for safety reasons. If one of the tree’s limbs dies or becomes too heavy, it could break away from the trunk, causing injury to nearby persons and damage to property. While it is recommended that you hire a tree-trimming company to deal with extensive tree trimming for safety reasons, you can perform small pruning tasks yourself.

HOW TO TRIM LARGE TREE BRANCHES

If you’re trimming heavy tree limbs, you have to be extra careful not to damage the bark or interfere with the tree’s natural healing response. Doing it right is actually no more difficult than doing it wrong, particularly if you think ahead to how much work it would take to remove a dead tree!

Here’s how to cut large tree limbs in your yard in three simple steps.

How Trees Heal

The truth is, trees don’t actually heal as we do. When you cut off a tree branch, the tree forms a special callous tissue (like a scar) that covers over the wound to keep out disease and decay. That scarred part of the tree will be there forever, sealed off so that the rest of the tree can keep growing. It’s very important to prune trees correctly so that we don’t interfere with this process – incorrect pruning will leave the tree weak and vulnerable to disease.

In the top photo, you can see the evidence of several large pruning cuts. The bumps show well-healed pruning scars, most of them completely covered over. The “donut” shaped scar is normal, too. The callous tissue grows from the outside edges toward the center, so it’s still in the process of sealing over.

How to Cut a Tree Limb

Proper pruning of large tree limbs involves three cuts:

• Cut #1, Notch Cut: Cut a small notch in the bottom of the limb, 2-3 feet away from the trunk, and about a quarter of the way through. This notch will keep the bark from splitting when you make the next cut.
• Cut #2, Relief Cut: Just outside the notch, make a relief cut completely through the branch. This removes the weight of the branch, so that you can make your final cut without the branch splitting and falling.
• Cut #3, Final Cut: This is the one that matters! Your final cut should be right where the branch collar (that swollen bump) transitions to smooth branch bark. Follow the slant of the branch collar. If you can’t fit your saw into the crotch at the right angle, then cut it from the bottom up.

Common Tree Trimming Mistakes

• Cutting the Branch Too Short: We used to think that branches should be cut off flush with the trunk – boy, were we ever wrong! The branch collar is responsible for forming the scar tissue. If you cut into the branch collar, the tree will have a very hard time recovering. When you see rotten holes in tree trunks, or seeping wounds, you’re looking at the aftermath of cutting off the branch collar.
• Leaving the Branch Too Long: The branch collar on the truck can only do its job of allowing the wound to heal if all of the branch that it has to cover over has been removed while leaving the branch collar itself intact. In the photo on the right, you can see how the branch stubs that were left too long are interfering with and actually preventing the healing process from taking place.
• Failure to Make the Relief Cuts: If you fail to make the relief cuts and remove most of the weight of the limb before trimming the branch back to the trunk, you run the risk of having the branch split off. This can cause substantial damage to the trunk, as seen in the photo at right. This can make the wound on the trunk susceptible to disease and insect infestation and take much longer to heal.

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What soil is right for my new tree?

Written by Urnabios Admin and published on https://urnabios.com/.

Proper planting is essential for healthy, vigorous growth of ornamental plants in the landscape. It assures rapid plant establishment by providing a favorable environment for the developing root system.

Planting involves more than merely digging a hole and sticking a plant in it. Giving careful consideration to the preparation of the planting site, the time of year for best plant establishment, and the handling requirements of different nursery stock will help you avoid problems later on.

Why Soil is important for Tree health

There are numerous factors that can affect your plant health, one of which is soil. It’s easy to overlook soil for tree or shrub health when planting, we become so caught up with tree care above ground that we forget what’s happening below ground is just as important. Soil for tree health is essential, especially in urban settings.

Soil guides the species of trees that can thrive in your area. Planting a tree that isn’t suitable for the area is senseless. Neglecting proper soil for your tree can be detrimental to a tree’s health, and even cost you your tree. By understanding a few soil basics, you can select trees that will thrive in your soil.

Get to know your Soil

Soil is comprised of many things: nutrients, minerals, water, liquids, air, and gases. What works for one tree won’t necessarily work for another. Each tree requires a different soil.

There are numerous soil varieties, but the most common soils are sandy, silt, clay, peaty, loamy, and chalky. Soils vary from one location to the next, but one thing they share is their visible layers or horizons. The composition of soil is identifiable by how it settles. When you don’t have healthy soil available, you can mix soils together to change the texture, creating a soil for trees that is more suitable for planting.

• Sandy – rough texture and dries easily. Since the soil base is loose, it’s harder to retain moisture, making it harder for plants to access nutrients.
• Silt – it is comprised of fine particles and has a smooth, slippery texture. Its tight compaction can serve as an advantage in retaining moisture and nutrients, or a problem if planted with the wrong tree.
• Chalky – usually stony and lays on top of limestone or bedrock. It will require more nutrients to support plant growth.
• Clay – feels lumpy and sticky when it’s very wet. It is the most tightly packed soil with little air space, making it difficult for air and moisture to penetrate the soil.
• Loamy – the most ideal soil. It drains well, full of nutrients, and holds water.
• Peaty – has a much higher proportion of organic matter because of the soil’s acidic nature. There are fewer nutrients, but it holds water well.

Soils can even vary on the same property. An easy way to identify your type is to fill a small jar with soil from your yard or place you want to plant your Bios Urn®, shake it, and let the soil settle overnight. The following day you should notice distinct layers. Sandy soil tends to settle at the bottom, clay at the top, and silt in the middle.

Why does soil for tree health matter?

Soil performs five essential functions; using the wrong type of soil or unhealthy soil can impede tree health by constricting roots from accessing the water and nutrients necessary. Soil helps regulate water, supports biodiversity, filters pollutants, provides physical support, and cycles nutrients. You can understand why attempting to plant a tree that requires less soil saturation may not thrive if it’s planted in silt or clay soil. Trees show signs of stress, possible signs that the soil isn’t healthy to include leaf discoloration, brittle limbs, and even stunted tree growth.

It’s also important to dig a hole deep enough for tree roots to grow. Planting in shallow soil makes tree roots more susceptible to exposure which can lead to tree stress and even toppling from wind gusts. If you have bedrock near the surface of your soil that prevents you from digging deep, consider mixing in top soil to add depth.

Soils are complex organisms, that’s why there is a whole field of study dedicated to the soil. Plant growth is directly influenced by soil conditions. That’s not to say that if your plants show these signs that it’s a result of poor soil. Several varying factors go into tree health, but soil care is a key component to growing healthy trees.

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How Much Do I Have To Water My New Tree?

Written by L Peter Macdonagh and published on https://www.deeproot.com/.

When you plant new trees in your yard, it very important to give the young trees excellent cultural care. Watering a newly transplanted tree is one of the most important tasks. But gardeners have questions about how best to do this: When should I water new trees?

How much to water a new tree?

Healthy trees can grow anywhere, including cities, provided they receive enough water, soil, and sunlight. Research shows that vigorous urban trees keep people healthier, cool cities in summer, warm homes in winter, help kids learn better, decrease car accident rates, raise real estate values, and decrease crime dramatically. Even with these myriad benefits, recent heat and droughts in many parts of North America (and elsewhere) raise an uncomfortable but necessary question: how do you maintain a healthy tree when there is a shortage of water?

San Antonio, TX is an interesting place to look for an answer to this question because the San Antonio Water System (SAWS) has higher current water needs than what’s available in its system. As a result, they have had to start purchasing water outside of their regional watershed, well-shed, and river-shed – and this has driven then to develop an efficient watering system that enables them to give trees what they need while minimizing the economic and environmental burden of purchasing water.

Mark Peterson, formerly of the Texas Forest Service and now with the San Antonio Water Department, was tasked with creating watering guidelines that would provide enough water for young trees to survive and grow, but not use any more water than absolutely necessary. Mark’s approach is what I’ll be sharing here.

Simple, But Not Easy

No matter how drought-tolerant, native, or local a tree species is, almost all young to trees (typically 1 to 3 years old, or up to 5 years in Type I, Type II and especially arid regions) in man-made landscapes must be watered by people during the summer to survive and become established.  The complete extent of young tree roots in the first few years after planting is limited to the soil volume that the tree was last grown in (for example, a pot or container). Mature, established trees generally require less consistent care, but during droughts, every tree must be monitored and watered adjusted accordingly.

If you are caring for young, recently planted trees, here are some good rules of thumb to follow (your mileage may vary depending on climate and tree species). Here is Mark’s watering regimen for newly planted trees.

Watering as a Science

Year	Amount	Frequency
YEAR 1
First month of planting	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water three (3) times a week over the root ball.
Second month of planting	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water two (2) times a week over the root ball.
Third month of planting	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water once (1) per week over the root ball.
Fourth to ninth month of planting	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water twice per month over the root ball.
YEAR 2
Hottest months	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water twice per month over the root ball only. During a drought, water once weekly.
Cooler months		Monitor and respond
YEAR 3
Hottest months	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water twice per month, twice the width of the root ball. During a drought, water once weekly.
Cooler months		Monitor and respond
YEAR 4
Hottest months	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water twice per month, twice the width of the root ball. During a drought, water once weekly.
Cooler months		Monitor and respond
YEAR 5
Hottest months	Trunks smaller than 2” (5 cm):  1 gallon per inch of trunk diameter. Trunks larger than 2” (5cm): 2 gallons per inch of trunk diameter.	Water twice per month, twice the width of the root ball. During a drought, water once weekly.
Cooler months		Monitor and respond

For young trees, water the roots around the trunk (not the trunk itself, and not the area outside the root ball). I also recommend creating and maintaining a 3-foot wide, 1” to 3” (2.5 cm to 7.5 cm) deep organic (wood chip) mulch ring around the trunk for its entire life, to help maintain soil moisture.

For mature trees (>25 years), or those with a trunk more than 12″ (30 cm) in diameter, water deep and occasionally. About 10 gallons per 1 inch (2.5 cm) of trunk diameter per week (ex., a tree with 12″ DBH would receive 120 gallons) during drought. If there is unlimited water, there are records of trees absorbing 150 gallons of water in a single day.

Watering as an Art

In addition to the (human-driven) watering recommendations described above, there are environmental and design decisions that can set trees in the built environment on a more secure course for getting their irrigation needs to be met.

Select tree species that, over the long term in typical summer weather (not droughts), won’t require supplemental watering.

The urban landscape is full of small humps, bumps, and pimples that don’t serve to gather and contain water runoff. By thoughtfully altering these forms via slopes, pipes, and berms, we can turn the entire previous landscape into a tool for draining water to tree planting areas.  This would be a paradigm change for watering trees and managing stormwater worth billions of dollars, and billions of gallons of water, nationwide.

All trees need water during droughts. DeepRoot published some thoughts about this last summer that are worth re-reading. Trees that have access to larger volumes of loamy soil will be able to withstand dry periods better because of the water reserves the soil can contain (remember that sandy soils will drain quickly and require more frequent irrigation).  Evergreens need heavy watering going into the winter and need watering during winter droughts.

Sometimes annuals or bulbs can look nice planted under a tree. But the tree is paying a price in root damage (caused by planting and removing flowers) and water competition for that temporary beauty. After tree establishment, I do not plant anything under trees within 10 feet of the trunk.

Watering Tools

There are a great number of available tools for watering trees depending on your needs, budget, and other site considerations.

Passive

• Slow-release watering bags (e.g. Gator Bags).
• Rain leaders, or scuppers, can be directed towards tree trunks or below ground into the tree soil mass.
• Flexible downspout extender can be directed towards tree trunks.
• Clean 5-gallon bucket. Fill with hose and time speed of fill – this will tell you how many gallons per minute are being applied. A typical municipal fill = 5 gallons un 2-5 minutes
• Rain barrels with flexible hoses attached.

Active

• Automatic irrigation can be great for watering hard-to-get-to trees and can be set to run occasionally for long periods of time using drip, bubbler, or soaker hose.
• Harvest cisterns – sump pump.

It’s important, particularly with mature, established trees, to water the entirety of the soil volume, even the part under paving. If there is no automatic tree watering system (bubblers, drip), I suggest using a soil watering needle with a watering hose connected.

Timing

Effective tree watering always takes place relatively slowly. (For this reason, pop-up rotary sprinkler head systems for lawns, that only turn on for a few minutes a few to several  times a week, are not the best type of watering for trees). If you use automatic irrigation to water your trees, set them to run for much longer periods of time using drip, bubbler, or soaker hose.

Still not sure?

The above are just guidelines; you should use your own experience, common sense, and (if appropriate) input from a professional when applying these to your site. Some simple questions can help you assess how much and how frequently to water your trees. Think about the following as a place to get started:

• Are the trees young and newly planted, or mature and established?
• How much precipitation does the area receive? How intense and frequent are the storms?
• How warm is the average daily|high temperature in the hot season?
• How much soil is the trees planted in?
• What type of soil are the trees planted in?
• Are the trees growing in a street, median, parking lot, lawn?
• What moisture conditions does the tree prefer?
• How does water get into the tree opening?

If you’re wondering what trees do with all that water, on hot or windy days in the summer, a whopping 95 percent of the water that the tree consumes, when available, is turned into mist by the leaves (a process called evapotranspiration). The remaining 5 percent is used to photosynthesize to manufacture sugars for food.

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Biggest Mistakes Homeowners Make When Trimming Their Own Trees

Written by HGTV Admin and published on https://www.hgtv.com/.

When it comes to tree maintenance, you may think that tree trimming is one of these tasks that can easily be done without the help of a professional. While it may be true that you can conquer tree trimming on your own, there are several important things to consider before beginning. Often homeowners are unaware that there is, in fact, a proper way to trim trees, resulting in some common tree trimming mistakes. Without training or extensive tree knowledge, it is important to do some research on how to properly trim your trees during your planning phase to help avoid these mistakes.

Biggest Pruning Mistakes

The myth of the “maintenance free” landscape is easily debunked when DIY landscapers realize that plants never stop growing. Pruning, if only of the rare, occasional variety, is essential for every functioning landscape. While incidents of permanent pruning damage seldom occur, there are right and wrong ways to go about the business of pruning. 

Not Pruning

One major pruning mistake that flies under the radar for a long time is a failure to prune. Not pruning at all can cause its own set of problems. Look for plants that have outgrown their allotted space or become “leggy.” Some blooming plants will harbor old flower heads or seedpods that may be undesirable. Neglected plants can be reshaped, but often they will require rather extended time, and in some instances, several follow-up prunings, to grow back into a desirable shape again.

Cutting Off the Flowers

Ever wonder why your hydrangea doesn’t bloom? It could be that you pruned the buds off. This is an example of another big pruning mistake: pruning at the wrong time of year. Most spring and early summer bloomers set their flower buds on the previous year’s growth. If they are pruned too late in the summer or before bloom time in the spring, it is likely that they will not bloom well, or at all. Limit pruning of these early bloomers to a window of time within a month of the end of their bloom cycle.

Excessive Shearing

Hedges, foundation plants and topiaries are normally sheared to maintain a tightly groomed appearance. Problems can arise, however, when shearing is the only approach used to attend these plants. A thin layer of dense leaves with little thickness will leave them looking like hollow green shells. The best way to both prevent and correct this pruning mistake is with occasional thinning. Use handheld pruners or loppers to remove up to ten percent of the branches bearing the surface foliage in order to allow sunlight to penetrate deeply into the plant. Thinning will promote deep branching and greater sunlight penetration will stimulate lush, deep foliage.

Out of Shape Plants

When hedges are cut inward toward the bottom, it becomes increasingly more difficult for them to regenerate foliage at the base. Ultimately the bottom of the plant will be bare. For the consistently best look and long-term health, hedges and other groomed plants must be wider at the bottom and taper slightly toward the top. This shape will provide good sunlight exposure for the whole foliage surface, leading to good leaf production throughout.

Topping

Tree and shrub varieties should be researched before planting to ensure that they will grow to an appropriate size for their allotted space. Removing the top of a tree stimulates one or more secondary leaders that will naturally grow in the same way as the original but with weaker structure, resulting in a net negative effect. A tree that has outgrown its space should be removed. A large, well-established shrub may be “renewal” pruned in late winter or early spring. Simply cut the shrub to the ground (or within a foot or so of the ground), allowing it to regenerate from the suckers that will form in spring. Ultimately, it is best to replace too-large landscape plants with right-sized ones.

Poor Technique

Simply cutting branches off of trees and shrubs will not necessarily give the desired effect. Doing it the wrong way may result in unsightly cut ends showing for a long time, heavy production of water sprouts producing an unbalanced look, oversized scars, etc. When removing branches, always make the final cut at the top of a branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the main stem) or at a node (where leaves or lateral branches generate from the branch you are cutting). Conifers take a long time to regenerate new growth when cut beyond the growing tips. Hard cutbacks should be avoided if possible, but when necessary these cuts should be made where the cut will be carefully hidden within surrounding foliage. Large, heavy branches should be slightly undercut before removing to prevent the bark from tearing when the wood breaks midway through cutting.

Junky Tools

Dull blades, stiff, loose or rusty moving parts can lead to all sorts of problems from ugly, ragged cut edges to spread of disease, and possibly to injury of the user. Keep pruning tools sharp, clean, well oiled and in overall good working order. Properly repair or replace them if they become damaged. Store them in a dry location.

Attention to Detail

The difference between a well-pruned landscape and one riddled with big pruning mistakes is often a matter of detail. The effort and expense involved is comparable in the short term, and far less in the long run when good pruning practices are employed over questionable ones. Always work patiently and methodically. When in doubt, take a little time to research the specific plant or issue in question before proceeding. Remember, after it’s cut, you can’t put it back. With forethought and practice, pruning mistakes will become a thing of the past.

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