Ways to Care for Your Trees This Spring

Written by Lisa Tadewaldt and published on https://www.urbanforestprofessionals.com/blog/spring-tree-care-tips/.

As the weather begins to brighten and the trees start to blossom, it’s safe to say that we are finally in the midst of spring! As such, there’s no better time than now to get outside and prepare your garden for the spring/summer seasons so it can flourish, thrive and achieve its full potential. Whether you are a new homeowner looking to take care of the trees in your yard by yourself, or a landscaper looking for a setlist of what to do – this list will provide you with the guidance and steps that you need.

Springtime is the perfect time to start providing your trees with some extra love and attention. Because they have been essentially asleep for the past three months, as well as having had moisture and debris build upon them, it is vital that your trees are taken care of as early into spring as possible.

Spring Tree Care Tips

Spring has bounded into the Portland area! As blossoms emerge, it’s time to conduct the following basic spring tree care tasks for the long-term health of your trees. So as to give your trees a long, productive growing season, it’s best to complete these tasks early in the season, in March and early April. Let’s take a look at the most effective spring tree care projects Portland homeowners and businesses can tackle to keep trees healthy this year.

Spring Cleaning Begins at Base of the Tree

Remove twigs, leaves, and other detritus that may have accumulated beneath and around trees. Warmer weather signals the time to remove any protective plastic or coverings you may have had in place during the cold winter months. It’s a good idea to rake up any debris that collected underneath or around the tree, like old leaves or fallen fruit because this helps to protect the tree from any diseases or fungi that might be lingering.

Inspect Trees for Damage & Disease

Look for obvious signs of tree disease, including broken branches, holes, molds, and fungi. Also notice which branches do not put out blossoms or leaves—these are likely dead and ready to be pruned away, ideally by a professional Portland tree pruning service, such as Urban Forest Professionals. Winter desiccation, also known as “winter burn,” can occur when plants dry out in cold winter conditions. Winter sunscald is another challenge; it manifests as vertical cracks in tree bark. The discoloration is another clue that something may be amiss. For instance, some plants will yellow if they receive too much water.

If you have questions about damage, call an experienced arborist for sound information. Our Portland ISA-certified arborists can recommend when to remove branches, when to add supportive cables, and when it’s best to remove the whole tree, rather than risk it crashing down in the next storm.

Plant New Trees in Spring

Trees bring dozens of benefits to your home or business! They reduce noise levels, stabilize soil, and give wildlife a place to perch. Trees also increase property values while decreasing energy costs. Spring is a good time to add trees to your property, as their roots will have enough time to dig in before scorching summer temperatures hit. Of course, every tree species has its own preferences, so feel free to contact us with questions about the best time to plant a new tree.

Mulch trees and water

Next, apply some mulch. Mulching trees helps to suppress weeds and retain moisture. It’s most important when you’re dealing with young trees (less than 10 years old), but older trees can benefit as well. The layer of mulch should be two to three inches thick and a couple of feet wide. Don’t let it touch the trunk directly, though, because this gives diseases an easy point of access. Leave an inch or two clear.

Don’t water the tree until the soil thaws, or else you’ll just create runoff. Don’t let the tree dry out even when the weather is cool, though. You might have to water a few times a day. Deeply water any trees near areas where deicing materials were used. Watering it well helps to wash away the salt and minerals. Finally, adjust your sprinklers so they don’t create puddles or spray the leaves—wet foliage encourages disease.

Fertilize Trees

Fertilization can also be done in the spring months. Fertilizer is a good idea whenever soil lacks the macronutrients and micronutrients that trees need to thrive. To figure out if an established tree needs fertilization, observe its shoot growth, i.e., the growth that happens in a single year. In general, shoot growth of fewer than 2 inches indicates a fertilizer may be required. Of course, certified arborists take many other factors into account when prescribing the best fertilization approach.

Beyond soil testing, foliage color and the history of the yard should also be considered. As far as timing goes, it’s ideal to provide slow-release fertilizer prior to the tree’s springtime growth spurt. While fertilization timing varies by location, by soil conditions, and by species, a good rule of thumb is to apply fertilizer as soon as the ground is workable in the spring.

Importance of Fertilizing Portland trees in spring

Spring tree fertilization is common as most trees have their greatest need for nutrients in the spring. In Portland, this spring application usually happens in March or April as, rainy, cold weather wanes and sunny weather begins to show its face. Trees in the city need fertilization because many of the natural processes that take place to add nutrients to the soil are disrupted. Leaves and other debris are cleaned up before they can be re-incorporated into the soil. Soil is often compacted so many nutrients are washed away as urban runoff. Also, the presence of pollutants can strip nutrients from the soil or disrupt their absorption.

If your tree is having health issues, fertilization is likely an important part of getting that tree back into tip-top shape, but you need to be sure that the problem that caused the tree to be unhealthy has been resolved. A Certified Arborist can help you identify and diagnose health issues. Trees are similar to humans in that when we are sick good nutrition can go a long way to getting us back on our feet, but in some cases, additional medicine or other interventions are required to achieve and maintain our health.

We use two basic types of fertilizers for trees

1. Chemical: This is your basic man-made chemical fertilizer. There are several reputable brands which have developed formulations made specifically for either Deciduous or Evergreen trees, and for application in either the spring or the fall. Two of the most popular brands are Jobes and Phc for trees. Jobes is a good quality one that has an organic option and is available at most Home Depot stores. Phc is a little harder to find but has excellent proven results and is what many professional arborists use.
2. Natural Mix: For us this is a compost tea mixed with Mycorrhizal Fungi. This fertilizer combination is a more organic option that mimics nature. The Mycorrhizal Fungi helps with the absorption of the nutrients and, we have seen great results with their use of urban trees. This application is somewhat custom and cannot be bought off of the shelf.

Fertilization options for trees also come is several application options. Fertilizer is most cases can’t be just spread on the ground surrounding the tree. It needs to be inserted under the soil 6”-12” down into the root zone of the tree. Those application options are:

1. Tree Spikes: These are the most common option for a DIY fertilizer application. Tree spikes are soil form fertilizer which is formed in a spike shape which can be driven into the ground by hand (of at least in theory they can).
2. Deep Root Fertilization: This is a liquid fertilizer pumped into the soil using a long wand attached to a commercial pump. This method is favored by professional arborists.
3. Injections: Fertilizer applications can be injected directly into the tree, but this is usually only done in extreme cases or when the tree is also receiving another type of injection.

Maintaining your trees is, of course, a year-round job, but taking big steps to ensure their health in the early spring will set them up for a great year! Each season comes with its own tasks and chores, so make sure you are taking care of your trees every day, all year.

With these tips and the help of Arborist Now, your trees should be happy, healthy and thriving this season!

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Can Pruning Kill a Tree? Know the Facts Before You Begin

Written by Admin and published on https://blog.davey.com/.

Watersprouts are inactive buds that get triggered and grow rapidly as well as unpredictably. They commonly grow vertically, defeating the purpose of the original topping cut and are normally inadequately affixed which makes them a threat for failure. If you have actually seen your tree has actually been topped and also a whole lot of watersprouts have been creating at the sites of the damages, do not fret, not all hope is lost.

The process is described as crown remediation. Crown remediation entails strategically removing watersprouts and also any type of dead branches while cultivating well put strongly connected watersprouts right into new branches. This process takes time as well as numerous prunings over a number of years yet will at some point renew and also reform your trees crown.

Pollarding is a trimming technique that is typically done to huge expanding, deciduous trees that grow readily after trimming. This specific approach of trimming should be begun while a tree is of a young age. The initial action of pollarding is to use heavy intermodal heading cuts on the subject.

Should You Seal Cut Tree Limbs?

Consequently, one have to eliminate the sprouts every year or every various other year. These areas will begin to develop handles or knuckles where the sprouts proceed to come from as well as time after time you have to continue removing the sprouts. The positioning of the cut is really important for this method to be successful.

An additional important variable that is crucial for the trees survival is the timing of the pruning. It is EXTREMELY vital that sprouts are removed throughout the dormant season. Typically, the dormant season is when the tree sheds all of its vegetation during the fall/winter months. This is essential since the tree needs its leaves to produce energy so it can resprout after pollarding.

Pollarding is a strategy that came from in Europe centuries earlier. Traditionally this method was made use of to generate a big quantity of tiny size branches, which could be utilized for gas or crafts, from a consistent source. By reducing branches back every year and also gathering the lengthy slim watersprouts, farmers had a good source of food for animals, fuel for the fire, and also structure product for baskets, fences and also frameworks.

In this scenario the method is made an application for the objective of keeping road trees in restricted areas. As opposed to allowing a tree to grow to complete dimension, which can trigger interference with electric energies and also frameworks, pollarding can maintain a tree healthy and balanced at a much smaller sized and convenient dimension. The most essential distinguishing variable between a pollarded and a topped tree is the large knuckles that develop with pollarding.

The knuckles can be pictured as big scars. Every time the small diameter watersprouts are gotten rid of, the tree has the ability to heal compartmentalizing the wounds and re-sprout from inactive buds in the surrounding tissue the next year. On the various other hand, topping does not cause knuckle development. Instead it results in a large un-healable wound that usually leads to the fatality of the tree.

Do you have a topped tree that you want to revitalize or are you thinking about pollarding your Sycamore? At Arborist Now we have competent arborists that know exactly how to stabilize your demands with those of your tree. Request for a consultation with us today so we can better discuss the health of your trees.

Is Pollarding Bad For Trees?

The maintenance of your lawn and garden will certainly contribute to the visual charm of your home. As a Melbourne property owner, it’s your obligation to keep your residential or commercial property looking neat and also attractive whatsoever times. Healthy vegetation and also trees will make your residential or commercial property attract attention and increase its value. In contrast, old or diseased foliage can take away from your building’s appearance and also minimize its worth.

By offering your frameworks the additional interest they require, you can prevent having to remove them in order to restore your landscape. Old and also unhealthy structures may require removal for security sake as well as to prevent the danger of contaminating various other vegetation on your property. Nevertheless, several trees can be saved and brought back by using the proper methods for their care.

Unless you are knowledgeable in tree monitoring, it is best to consult a specialist tree lopper prior to making any kind of choices on just how to treat your structures. A knowledgeable arborist can lead you into what treatments or techniques function best for the various kinds of vegetation on your residential or commercial property. Arborists are experts in their area; their counsel can prevent you from making expensive mistakes that can harm your garden as well as outcome in their elimination.

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The Right Way To Trim A Tree

Written by Valerie A. and published on https://www.lowes.com/.

As leaves fall from the trees each autumn, branches formerly covered in a canopy of dense foliage come out of hiding. Although many gardeners would rather never deal with the falling mess of leaves, I relish this time as an opportunity to inspect each tree canopy. It’s now that I carefully make note of any branches I may need to remove from my trees. Taking advantage of these dormant months gives me time to develop a plan for pruning and trimming trees in my landscaping.

How to Prune Trees and Shrubs

Pruning is necessary to promote good plant health, remove damaged limbs, encourage new growth, and maintain shape. Learn how to properly prune trees and shrubs.

Why Prune?

A well-maintained tree or shrub is healthier and looks better – two very good reasons to learn how to prune correctly. Proper tree pruning and shrub pruning helps:

Maintain safety: Remove low-growing branches if they impede passing vehicles or obscure oncoming traffic from view. You may also need to take out split or broken branches before they have the chance to come crashing down on a person, car, or building. It’s wise, too, to prune out low-hanging, whip-like branches (especially those with thorns) that may strike passersby.

Alter or rejuvenate growth: Neglected, overgrown shrubs can sometimes be turned into small multi-trunked trees if you remove their lower limbs; this may be a better approach than digging out the shrub and planting another in its place.

Direct growth: Pruning influences the direction in which a plant grows: Each time you make a cut, you stop growth in one direction and encourage it in another. This principle is important to keep in mind when you train young trees to develop a strong branching structure.

Remove undesirable growth: Prune out unwanted growth periodically. Cut out wayward branches, take out thin growth, remove suckers (stems growing up from the roots), and water sprouts (upright shoots growing from the trunk and branches).

Promote plant health: Trees and shrubs stay healthier if you remove branches that are diseased, dead, pest-ridden, or rubbing together.

Create particular shapes: You can prune a line of closely planted trees or shrubs as a unit to create a hedge. If you’re a hobbyist who practices topiary, you can prune trees and shrubs into fanciful shapes.

Produce more flowers or fruits: Flowering plants and some fruit trees are pruned to increase the yield of blossoms and fruit and to improve their quality. You’ll need, for example, to remove spent flowers from roses throughout their bloom time. For some fruit trees, you’ll make many small, precise cuts each dormant season. Although this sort of pruning sometimes ranks as a tedious chore, remember that your efforts will pay off in lavish bloom and generous crops of fruit at harvest time.

When to Prune

Pruning at the wrong time won’t damage plants, but it can sacrifice that year’s flowers or fruit. As a rule of thumb, prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees immediately after the flowers fade. Prune summer-blooming trees and shrubs in winter or early spring, before new growth emerges. In regions that have harsh winters, late summer pruning encourages new growth that might not harden before the cold settles in.

Note that these guidelines are most pertinent to climates with four distinct seasons and definite winter chill. In warmer-winter areas, timing will vary depending on the particular plant’s native climate. If you have any doubts about the best time to prune a particular plant, ask your Lowe’s nursery personnel or your cooperative extension office for advice.

Pruning in Spring

Many plants, especially deciduous trees and shrubs, are best pruned in late winter or early spring, just before they break dormancy. Heavy frosts have abated, so the plants are less likely to suffer cold damage at the point where you make your cuts. Deciduous plants are still bare, so you can easily spot broken and awkwardly growing branches and decide how to direct growth. And because growth will soon start, your pruning cuts will stimulate new growth in the direction you want.

For flowering trees and shrubs, you’ll need to know whether the flowers are produced on old or new growth. If early spring flowers come on last year’s wood – as in the case of forsythia, flowering quince, and flowering trees, such as peach and plum – you’ll lose many flowers by pruning before plants break dormancy. It’s best to wait until the flowering has finished before pruning. But plants such as cinquefoil, which bear flowers on leafy new growth formed in spring, can safely be pruned while dormant.

When removing heavy branches, avoid ripping the bark by shortening the branch to a stub before cutting it off at the branch collar. Use a sharp pruning saw and make these three cuts as described below:

Step 1

About a foot from the branch collar, make a cut from the underside approximately a third of the way through.

Step 2

About an inch further out on the branch, cut through the top until the branch rips off. The branch should split cleanly between the two cuts.

Step 3

Make the final cut by placing the saw beside the branch bark ridge and cutting downward just outside the branch collar. (If the branch angle is very narrow, cut upward from the bottom to avoid cutting into the branch collar.)

Pruning in Summer

A second time to prune is in late summer. Some gardeners like to thin plants in summer, because it’s easier to see how much thinning is really needed when branches are still thickly foliaged. And because growth is slower at this time of year, pruning is less likely to stimulate new growth–an advantage when you’re thinning. In cold-winter regions, don’t do summer pruning later than one month before the first frost; if you do, an early frost may damage the plant at the point of the cuts.

Pruning Evergreens

Although evergreen trees and shrubs don’t drop their leaves, they approach a near-dormant state during the winter months. The group includes broadleaf evergreens (such as boxwood and camellia) and conifers, among them spruce and pine. Broad-leaved evergreens are usually best pruned in late dormancy or in summer, as outlined above. For flowering broad-leaved evergreens, however, timing is a bit more precise; you’ll need to prune with an eye toward preserving flower buds. Prune after bloom for evergreens flowering on last season’s growth; prune before spring growth begins for those that bloom on new growth.

Most conifers are pruned only in their first two or three years in order to direct their basic shape; from then on, they’re best left alone. Some of the most badly botched pruning you’ll see is on conifers that have been pruned too severely, usually to keep them confined to a too-small location – although a few conifers, including arborvitae, yew and hemlock, lend themselves to shearing into hedges.

Understanding Growth Buds

Pruning makes sense when you understand the role and locations of growth buds. Select the bud you want to keep and cut just beyond it. The resulting growth will vary depending on the bud. If your pruning is to have the effect you want, you’ll need to learn to recognize three different kinds of growth buds.

A terminal bud grows at the tip of a shoot and causes the shoot to grow longer. These buds produce hormones that move downward along the shoot, inhibiting the growth of other buds on that shoot.

Lateral buds grow along the sides of a shoot and give rise to the sideways growth that makes a plant bushy. These buds stay dormant until the shoot has grown long enough to diminish the influence of the hormones produced by the terminal bud or until the terminal bud is pruned off–then they begin their growth. If you remove lateral buds, you’ll redirect growth to the terminal bud; the shoot will lengthen dramatically and tend to grow upward.

Latent buds lie dormant beneath the bark. If a branch breaks or is cut off just above a latent bud, the bud may develop a new shoot to replace the wood that has been removed. If you need to repair a damaged plant, look for a latent bud and cut above it.

Pruning Cuts

There are four basic pruning cuts, each aimed at producing a different effect. For cuts that involve cutting above a growth bud, make your cut as shown at left above. Angle it at about 45 degrees, with the lowest point of the cut opposite the bud and even with it; the highest point about 1/4 inch above the bud. Each of the steps below can be applied to your specific pruning need.

Instructions

Step 1

Pinching is one of the easiest “cuts” to make without cutting: You simply pinch off a terminal bud with your thumb and forefinger. This stops the stem from elongating and encourages bushy growth. It is typically done on annual and perennial flowers and on some vegetables. Also use it to direct growth of small-leaved shrubs and give the plant an even shape.

Step 2

Heading means cutting farther back on the shoot than you would for pinching. In most cases, the lateral bud has already grown a leaf, and you cut right above the leaf. Usually done with hand-held pruners, heading stimulates the buds just below the cut, encouraging dense growth.

Step 3

Shearing, customarily used to create a hedge or a bush with spherical or square form, is a form of heading that makes no attempt to cut back to a bud. However, because plants chosen for this treatment typically have many lateral buds close together, you’ll usually end up cutting near a bud. Shearing stimulates many buds to produce new growth, so you’ll be repeating the job regularly after you start. Because this method cuts right through leaves, it’s best done on small-leaved plants, where damage is less noticeable. Use hand-held or electric hedge shears for this kind of pruning.

Step 4

Thinning reduces the bulk of a plant with minimal regrowth: Each cut removes an entire stem or branch, either back to its point of origin on the main stem or to the point where it joins another branch. Because you remove a number of lateral buds along with the stem or branch, you’re less likely to wind up with clusters of unwanted shoots than you are when making heading cuts. (A common mistake of inexperienced gardeners is to make a heading cut when a thinning cut is needed.) Use hand-held pruners, loppers, or a pruning saw to make thinning cuts, depending on the thickness of the branch being cut.

Reasons to Contact an Arborist

While pruning, thoroughly check your tree for the following conditions. Contact a professional arborist to address these issues or if you’re unsure about the tree’s overall health:

• Decayed or hollowed-out wood
• Peeling bark
• Raised soil or bare roots around the tree base
• Girdling roots (roots wrapping around the tree’s trunk)

Pruning Tools

Hand Shears: Use hand shears for branches up to 1⁄4 inch in diameter. Scissor-type shears make tight, close cuts on plants. Hold shears to make sure they fit your hand and feel comfortable.

Lopping Shears: For branches up to 11⁄2 inches in diameter, reach for lopping shears. Buy shears with lightweight handles for easy use. Extendable handles let you reach higher branches.

Pruning Saws: For branches more than 11⁄2 inches in diameter, use pruning saws. Coarse teeth cut on the pull stroke for easy and safe pruning.

Pole Pruners: You’ll need pole pruners for branches more than 1 inch thick and beyond arm’s reach. Pole pruners feature a pruning shear head or saw that works via rope action. Look for pruners with a handle that disassembles for easy storage.

Hedge Shears: Use hedge shears for shaping and snipping new growth on shrubs.

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What are the Signs of a Dead Tree?

Written by Jeanne Huber and published on https://www.bobvila.com/.

Trees die, just as other organisms do, and will show some definite signs when they are dying or dead. Deciduous trees, which lose all their leaves each winter, have most signs in common with evergreen trees, which never lose all their leaves at once.

7 Signs Your Tree is Dying—and How to Save It

Know the signs of a dying tree.

Trees are valuable assets to a landscape. Not only do they provide aesthetics, but these towering plants also offer shade and shelter for wildlife and other plants. Sometimes a dying tree is obvious, with its leaves turning brown in the summer or branches riddled with holes from wood-boring pests. But it’s not always clear when trees are in poor health, which can make it difficult to address especially when a dead or dying tree located near a building or home. Broken limbs from a dying tree can cause injuries to people and pets and have the potential to lead to costly repairs if it lands on your home or car. Keep an eye out for these seven signs that you may have a dying tree so you can take care of it before it does damage to your property.

1. The tree has brown and brittle bark or cracks.

As the tree is dying, the bark becomes loose and starts to fall off of a dying tree. The tree may also have vertical cracks or missing bark. “Check for deep splits in the bark that extend into the wood of the tree or internal or external cavities,” advises Matt Schaefer, Certified Arborist of The Davey Tree Expert Company, the largest residential tree care company in North America and the first tree care company in the United States. Cracks often create weakness that can cause damage in storms or other weather events.

2. There are few healthy leaves left.

For deciduous trees, look for branches that lack lush green leaves and show only brown and brittle leaves during the growing season. They will also have dead leaves still clinging well into the winter instead of dropping to the ground. Coniferous evergreens will start to show red, brown or yellow needles or leaves when it’s stressed or dying.

3. The tree has an abundance of dead wood.

A couple of dead branches or dead wood doesn’t necessarily mean you have a dying tree. (Keeping a regular pruning schedule during the dormant season will keep your trees healthy and strong.) However, an increased prevalence of dead wood can indicate that it is a sick or dying tree. “Dead trees and branches can fall at any time,” Schaefer warns. This can potentially be a hazard to you and your home.

4. It’s a host to critters and fungus.

Pests such as bark beetles and carpenter ants live in trees that are under stress or are in the process of dying. These pests prefer to live in dead, weakened, or dying hosts. As for fungal or bacterial infections, look for cankers (discolored areas or depressed places on the bark) or mushrooms growing on the ground at the base of a tree or on the tree itself. These are indications of rot in the roots or trunk. “In time, decay will extend further within the tree leading to structural problems,” Schaefer says.

5. The tree shows signs of root damage.

Since roots run deep underground, determining damage isn’t always easily visible. If you’ve had recent excavation or construction projects near the tree, look out for any changes in the tree’s health since that time that might suggest the roots were damaged in the process. Likewise, if your tree has a shallow and/or partially exposed root system, pay attention to subtle changes that might suggest exposure to extreme elements and poor soil compaction have affected the vitality of the roots. Some signs of root damage include thinning foliage, poor yearly growth, yellow undersized leaves, dead branches, and wilted brown leaves during the growing season.

6. It develops a sudden (or gradual) lean.

“Odd growth patterns may indicate general weakness or structural imbalance,” Schaefer explains. In general, trees that lean at more than 15 degrees from vertical are in indication of wind or root damage. Large trees that have tipped in intense winds seldom recover and will eventually die.

7. The tree fails the scratch test.

Right beneath the dry, outer layer of bark is the cambium layer. If the tree still has life, it will be green; in a dead or dying tree, it is brown and dry. You can use a fingernail or a pocket knife to remove a small strip of exterior bark to check the cambium layer. You may need to repeat the test over several areas of the tree to determine if the whole tree is dead or just a few branches.

Can you save a dying tree?

If your tree is sick or only part of it is dying, you may still be able to save it with the help of an arborist. First, identify the problem: A sick tree will display similar signs as a dying or dead tree but not as widespread. “Although defective trees are dangerous, not all of them need to be removed immediately, and some defects can be treated to prolong the life of the tree,” Schaefer says. Contacting an arborist as soon as you notice any signs of a dying tree will give you a better chance of saving it. An arborist has the training and knowledge required to diagnose and successfully treat tree problems.

Tip: Conducting regular tree care and maintenance such as proper pruning, treating for disease and pests, and fixing structural damage will also help improve your tree’s health.

Still, sometimes, it’s too late to save a dying tree.

Sometimes, there’s nothing you can do to save your tree. Even strong, healthy trees can fall victim to severe weather, disease, or infestation. If the tree is beyond saving, it’s best to remove it if it poses a danger of falling onto people or structures. “Tree risks aren’t always visible or obvious,” Schaefer explains, adding, “advanced analysis, sometimes through the use of specialized arborist tools or techniques, may be necessary.” Consult a certified arborist to determine if your dead tree poses a dangerous situation on your property.

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Do Trees Needs Proper Pruning?

Written by Ben McInerney and published on https://www.gotreequotes.com/.

Pruning is the most common tree maintenance procedure. Although forest trees grow quite well with only nature’s pruning, landscape trees require a higher level of care to maintain their structural integrity and aesthetics. Pruning must be done with an understanding of tree biology. Improper pruning can create lasting damage or even shorten the tree’s life.

Why is tree pruning important?

Everyone seems to have a different philosophy on tree pruning. All types of trees benefit from regular pruning.

Tree pruning is important because
– it encourages new growth
– prevents decay
– makes trees more structurally sound
– Is great for the overall health of trees

The fact that tree pruning makes trees safer and increases aesthetic appeal might not be enough to encourage you to prune your tree, so here are a bunch more reasons why you really need to implement a regular pruning program.

The top reasons you need to prune your trees

Now let’s explore why tree pruning is important-

Ensures health: Pruning keeps your trees healthy. Pruning involves removing dead, infected, and excess branches. Proper pruning also allows more air circulation and sun exposure for healthy growth. This promotes new growth, balance, and structural integrity.

Safety: Dead branches can pose a risk to life and property especially during storms. Trees near power lines are also risky. Pruning helps prevent accidents by removing high-risk branches from your tree.

Encourages fruit production: You can prune fruit trees during late winter to promote more growth in spring and summer. When the tree has less volume to maintain, it can put its excess energy stores into producing more fruit.

Appearance: Overgrown trees and hanging branches can look ugly and bring down the curb appeal of your property. Pruning keeps trees in shape and increases the value and look of your property.

More sunlight: Trees can block the entry of sunlight to your home. By clearing the obstructing branches you can allow more light in and save on power.

Growth control: You can control the growth of your trees through tree pruning. You can make a tree easier to maintain this way. Pruning trees in summer generally limits their growth while pruning in winter leads to robust growth.

Improves view: You can prune the branches blocking the view of your windows, balconies, and skylights.

What should be pruned?

What needs to be pruned depends on your objectives-

● Deadwood – You can remove dead and decaying branches to maintain the health of your tree.
● Crossing Branches – When branches grow inwards towards the canopy instead of out, they tend to rub against other branches in the wind causing the bark to sheer off. This can lead to fungal disease or pest invasion.
● Lower branches – Known as a canopy lift, this is a great place to start if you are looking to increase light.

When should you prune your tree?

The ideal time to prune trees is late winter if you want to ensure robust growth. Winter makes the wounds heal faster and ensure less bleeding of sap as the trees are dormant.

You shouldn’t trim trees during fall as your tree takes more time to recover and can develop fungi or diseases.

It’s best to avoid pruning in summer unless you want to reduce the number of fruits or growth of the tree. Fruits trees are annually pruned during late winter to help them grow more fruits.

Spring-blooming trees can be pruned right after they bloom.

Essentially, it boils down on the type of the tree and why you want to prune. So first decide your objectives and then choose the right time to prune.

That being said, you can carry out minor pruning any time of the year. For example, you can remove dead wood, shape canopy, or prune small branches without worrying if it’s summer or winter.

How often should you trim your tree?

It’s best to consider the type, size, and health of your tree to decide how often to trim. Some trees like evergreens can go as many as 7 years without trimming. On the other hand, it is a practice to trim fruit trees once a year during late winter to increase fruit production.

● As a rule of thumb, young trees should be trimmed typically every 2 to 3 years.
● For mature trees, try to trim them once in at least 3 to 5 years.

Pro tip: To save on the cost of tree trimming, opt to have the work done in winter. You will save a minimum of 20% off the price. This is because tree services are quiet during winter and the whole industry becomes very competitive.

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Do’s and Dont’s of Caring a Tree

Written by Pro Tree Service and published on https://www.protreeservice.com/.

Taking Care of a tree is equally challenging as baby care. Like a new-born baby, the tree can’t appraise the issues going on or supposed to go, one has to read its countenance and it requires year’s long study in arboriculture and professional experience. For a passionate homemaker, Backyard and its plantation & lawn are one of the high-interest parts. That is the reason, few people treat themselves as arborists and play with trees and their life as well.

Dos and Don’ts of Tree Care

There’s more to tree care than you probably think. At Pro Tree Service in Chicago, we want to help you keep your trees healthy and beautiful for years to come. It starts with knowing some general dos and don’ts of tree care. 

The Dos of Tree Care

Do prune your trees

Take a close look at your trees. Do you notice any significantly dead, damaged, and/or diseased branches? Are your trees starting to encroach on a nearby property or public-use space? If you answered yes to either of these questions, it’s probably a good time to prune your tree. Just be sure to avoid pruning during the fall, as this maintenance actually stimulates unwanted growth right before winter.

Do look for pests and tree diseases

There are a number of tree pests to look for in Chicago, including the Emerald Ash Borer, Asian Longhorned Beetle, and Gypsy Moth. Trust us when we say that any of these pests can affect the greenery in your yard. That’s why we suggest educating yourself on the signs of a sick tree. The sooner you spot a tree disease or pest and contact a professional, the greater the chance your tree has of bouncing back.

To prevent your tree from getting too close to power lines  

This is a big one. The closer your tree gets to a power line, the likelier you are to lose power during the next bad storm. Put your mind at ease and trim back any limbs that are nearing utility lines or roadways. The last thing you want is for an overgrown tree to cause damage to your home or someone else’s.

Do buy trees that are native to the area      

Keep in mind that trees only thrive in a specific area. So unless you want to throw money away on your yard’s greenery, double-check that the tree you want is native to the region. We even wrote a blog post dedicated to the most popular trees in Chicago for this reason! 

Do call a professional tree service for assistance

Professional tree care companies work to solve even the most complex tree dilemmas. Whether you’re wondering if your tree is sick or needs to be removed, an experienced tree service can help. As we’ll explain more in a bit, you’re better off leaving tree maintenance in the hands of a professional.

The Don’ts of Tree Care

Don’t trim your trees too often  

Many homeowners don’t realize that the constant removal of branches and limbs can shorten the life of some trees. Rather than prune your trees every season, get in the habit of limiting your pruning and trimming to springtime. Doing so stimulates growth at an optimal time.

Don’t do any cleanup after storm damage 

Let’s say that a nasty storm rolls through your neighborhood and knocks down your tree. While your first thought may be to go outside and start cleaning up the mess, your best bet is to get in touch with your insurance company and take pictures of the damage. Pro Tree Service also advises that you leave those storm-damaged trees in the hands of a professional.

Don’t plant trees too close to each other

A tree needs its space to maintain healthy growth over time. If you’re wanting to plant more than one tree in your yard, be sure to give them some space. Trees without healthy root growth might not reach their full potential.

Don’t try to remove a large tree by yourself

DIY tree removal carries an enormous risk of damage. Yet countless homeowners are seriously injured each year by accidents involving chainsaws, ladders, and other tree removal equipment. So play it safe and call a dependable tree service if you have a large tree that needs to be removed.

Don’t hire just any tree service

Contrary to popular belief, no two tree services are the same. You’ll find during your research that some tree care companies only specialize in tree trimming while others solely focus on tree removal. At Pro Tree Service in Chicago, we do it all, from tree trimming and removal to land clearing and brush removal. 

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Importance of Removing That Old Tree Stump

Written by Christine DiMaria and published on https://www.angieslist.com/.

Leaving a stump after a tree has been cut down will leave you with issues of safety and liability, unwanted tree growth, and insect infestation. These are three important reasons to remove the tree stumps in your yard. Another issue with tree stumps is they create an unsightly yard appearance.

6 Reasons Why You Should Remove That Tree Stump

When you hire a professional tree removal service, chances are you will need to decide whether to pay to remove the stump.

Before you have a tree removal specialist cut down the dead tree in your yard, you’ll need to decide whether the worker should remove the tree stump as well. If you’re having a hard time making this judgment call, consider these factors when deciding what to do with the stump. 

1. Stumps aren’t pretty. Aesthetically speaking, the sight of a stump definitely isn’t appealing. If you’re meticulous about your yard and landscaping, removing the stump is well worth it.

2. Stumps are hazardous. Stumps are dangerous to your children. When running and playing in your yard, they may not look for the stump and trip over it. And if a neighbor trips, it’s a liability that falls into your hands. In addition, tree stumps can damage your mower if you accidentally hit one when you’re mowing your lawn.

3. Stumps cause new tree growth. Sometimes leaving the stump behind contributes to new sprouts, which can result in many small trees growing around the stump. This is unsightly to your landscaping and quite costly to try to remove because the new shoots may keep coming back, and you may need chemicals to kill them off completely. These small trees also leech nutrients from other plants located near them, so your begonias may not receive all the nutrients they need.

4. Stumps are a pain to maneuver around. Remaining tree stumps become a nuisance, an obstacle you have to maneuver around when weeding or mowing your lawn.

5. Stumps attract insects. When you leave stumps in your lawn, the decaying tree takes a long time to rot away completely. While it’s decaying, the stump attracts beetles, termites, ants, and other wood-boring pests. You may not mind them in your yard, but they can eventually spread to your home.

6. Stumps take up precious yard space. Especially if you don’t have a very large yard, the space you lose from the stump and roots may occupy a lot of space. Just think: You can use that space for a flowerbed or a picnic table.

Typically, you’ll spend extra money to grind down the stumps, but it just might be well worth it.

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Reduce Those Winter Heating Bills

Written by Admin and published on https://treecaretips.org/.

Everyone knows that summer temperatures are cooler in the shade, but trees can help cut winter energy costs, too. The most common approach is to plant evergreen trees and shrubs on the north and northwest sides of your property.

Planting to Reduce Those Winter Heating Bills

Everyone knows that summer temperatures are cooler in the shade. But in winter, it is easy to forget that trees can help cut winter energy costs, too. With some forethought, you can save money by planting evergreen trees and shrubs on the north and northwest sides of your property.

“Planting evergreen trees and shrubs in certain areas around your house can create an effective windbreak,” says Tchukki Andersen, BCMA, CTSP* and staff arborist with the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA). “Generally, most cold winds come from the north or west. An option for those sides of the building is to plant a dense row of evergreens. This will provide additional insulation for your building. Be sure to plant them far enough from the foundation to allow for growth.”

Creating a windbreak

The ultimate goal of planting a windbreak – or living snow fence – is temperature control. A planting design that takes into account wind speed and direction can offer homeowners benefits ranging from reduced energy costs to more efficient landscape water management.

“Wind barriers can channel winds away from your house and cut down on cold drafts getting in,” Andersen advises. “In addition, shrubs, bushes and vines planted near a house can help keep the house cool in summer.”

How far away should you plant?

Allow enough space in the tree’s root zone for roots to grow. A qualified tree care provider can assist you with tree selection if you aren’t familiar with how much room a mature tree’s roots will need. Install physical root barriers if concerns about the foundation arise.

How dense should the windbreak be?

Whether your goal is to reduce the chilling effects of winter winds or control the accumulation of snow, the density of the plantings is key. A rough estimate of density can be determined by estimating the ratio of the “solid” area (branches, trunks, leaves, etc.) to the total area of the barrier.

For example, a row of deciduous trees might offer a density of roughly 30 percent. This means that the row consists of 30 percent trees and 70 percent open space in winter. By comparison, a row of conifers might have a density of 50 percent or 60 percent in winter.

Higher-density windbreaks are better at slowing wind speed enough to cause snow to drop to the ground. Therefore, snow will accumulate both on the windward and leeward side of the row (or rows). These types of living snow fences are extremely useful for keeping roads, driveways and other high-use areas clear of drifts. This means less plowing, less shoveling and less aggravation.

Every location is different, and there is no perfect design that will be effective in all situations. A professional arborist can evaluate your planting sites and help plan an effective windbreak that will offer homeowners a variety of benefits for years to come.

What can you do?

A professional arborist can assess your landscape and work with you to determine the best trees and shrubs to plant and to care for in your existing landscape. Search for a qualified tree care professional in your area.

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Older Trees Grow Faster

Written by Admin and published on https://youngzine.org/.

It turns out that as a slew of tree species age, they grow faster and gobble up more carbon dioxide than when they were younger, according to a study published last week (January 15) in Nature. The findings, which involved decades of data taken from 673,046 trees in more than 400 tropical and temperate tree species around the globe, contradict a long-standing assumption that tree growth slows as the plants age. “The trees that are adding the most mass are the biggest ones, and that holds pretty much everywhere on Earth that we looked,” Nathan Stephenson, a US Geological Survey ecologist and first author of the study, told Nature. “Trees have the equivalent of an adolescent growth spurt.

Older Trees Grow Faster!

Imagine living indefinitely! And not just that, but the older you get, you grow faster. It seems the absolute reverse of anything you might have heard till now about any living being, doesn’t it?

A group of scientists from around the world studied 80 years of data on about 700,000 trees across tropical and temperate regions. They found that over 90% of those trees increasingly got thicker and packed on more and more bulk with time.

This means at a leaf-level growth, old trees beat younger ones hands-down, or rather, leaves-down!

Senescence – The Science of Aging

Nature normally puts a cap on the growth of animals. The phenomenon called senescence causes cells to change and break down over a lifetime, eventually causing death. Foresters had observed that after a certain height, many trees stopped getting taller. A natural conclusion drawn from that was trees stopped growing too.

But some scientists were not convinced. They noticed that trees shed and grew new limbs and leaves even as they aged. They believed that trees did not stop growing; only they were slower. Enlisting the help of scientists around the world, USGS ecologists noticed that trees are an exception to this general rule of senescence. They have almost unlimited growth potential. In fact their thesis of slower growth did not hold good.

Trees actually grow faster as they age! They simply keep on getting thicker and larger, unless prohibited in some way such as disease, drought or deforestation (logging). They noticed that a large tree could put on weight equal to a small tree in just one year – sort of like active healthy bodybuilders. In human terms, this would mean we would grow so much, that we’d weigh half a ton by middle age, and well over a ton by retirement!

What Are The Implications?

Well, we know that plants are the largest ‘eaters’ of carbon dioxide today. Many ecologists believe that young forests with more trees per area can capture more carbon and should be given importance. However, these findings imply that older giants are way more effective than younger ones at absorbing carbon.

One of the next steps in this research is to determine if faster growth in aging trees correlates to more carbon storage. If proven, this can have a positive impact. Carbon dioxide, as you know, is a greenhouse gas blamed for rising temperatures. Finding ways to absorb this excess gas – known as CO2 sequestration, can slow down global warming, and will make a case for preserving old-growth forests. 

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How to Improve the Quality of Your Trees

Written by NEA Member Benefits and published on https://arbormagic.com.

The trees on your property offer a wide array of benefits. An individual tree can add up to 10 percent on your property’s value, and when you landscape using trees, it can increase your home’s value by as much as 20 percent. In addition to helping to add value to the outside of your home, trees planted on the west side can actually lower your power bills by as much as three percent.

Services to Improve the Quality of Your Trees

Since the life has discovered on Earth, trees have furnished us with two of life’s essentials, oxygen, and food. They also provide other necessities such as medicine, shelter, and tools. Today, their value continue to increase.

Summer, spring, winter or fall! Every season brings a change to your yard and with each season the trees and shrubs change their growth and shape.

Tree trimming and pruning encourages air circulation that reduces disease extent and the possibility of damage from high winds. Tree trimming also removes an unhealthy or dangerous branch that can easily fail in severe weather and allows more sunlight to reach your brake plants. Whether you need tree pruning, tree trimming, or tree removal, you must hire an experienced professional to help you deal with the trees, stumps and shrubs in and around your yard.

Every tree needs proper care. A real professional can only tell about each part of the tree. So it is necessary to ask for guidance about various tree services.

• SHEAR OF TREES

There is various method to shear the trees, which include:

CLASS 1 SHEAR

It is the highest quality of work. The health of the tree is most important. Removal of dead branches from1/2 inch is being removed in Class 1 shearing.

HAZARD SHEAR

Hazard shear is the removal of large dead and decayed weak branches. This type of pruning is used to lessen hazards in high impact areas.

• STUMP GRINDING

After the eradication of the tree, the stump can be grounded below the surface using a grinding machine. It is beneficial to grind the stumps 6-12 inch below grade. The stump grinder should be light enough for lawns and narrow enough to fit the most gates.

• FERTILIZATION:

Trees require nutrients to live and flourish. If any nutrients lack in the soil, the tree will not reach its full landscape potential, it will be more exposed to infection and insect problems, and will have a shorter life than a similar, well-fertilized tree.

A fertilization program is used to keep trees and shrubs in a healthy condition and to increase their immunity against any injury from diseases and insects. However, the addition of any soil nutrient is recommended only if soil or greenness plant tests show a deficiency. According to experts, the two most common elements of nutrient problems are high pH (alkaline) soils, which can lead to chronic insufficient nutrients in some tree species, such as red maple and pin oak, and nitrogen-deficient soils. Potassium (K), Nitrogen (N) and Phosphorus (P) are essential plant nutrients and these are most commonly applied.

• CABLING & BRACING OF TREE LIMBS

Cabling and bracing helps the weak corner to minimize storm damage that can cause damage to property. Cabling & Bracing helps support structurally weak corner to minimize storm damage that can cause injury and property damage. Cabling is an important measure to preserve the overall structural health of a tree.

• TREE REMOVAL

Both small and large trees and shrubs are removed by the experts in safe and organized manner. Trees left to rot and died off can become exposed to falling over at any time creating a hazard for all the surrounding trees.

A trained Arborist can work with you to safely and conveniently remove your tree. Many tree removals are complicated and mistakes are costly. Make sure the Arborist you choose is qualified.

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Mulch Matters – So Do it Right!

Written by NEA Member Benefits and published on http://cvhomemag.com/

Mulch can be frustrating. As a tool for nourishing your trees, or dressing up your landscape, you can’t beat it. But, as Charleston tree expert Rawson Services often sees, too much is too much. If you mulch your trees improperly, it ultimately can do more harm than good. Mulch giveth, mulch taketh away. First, look up. Your tree may be starting to resemble a Witches’ Broom. That’s a fairly strong and normal-looking base and trunk that lead up to a dead or dying canopy. Remember, trees often die from the top down. Right away, you know you have a tree problem…but what’s the cause?

Mulch Matters | Protect and Prepare for the Next Growing Season

This is the time of year when I’m grateful to have a fresh layer of mulch in my garden beds. Not only will it help keep my plants protected during the winter, it offers a tidy, finished feeling once the showier features of the garden have faded. With little in the way of vibrant blooms and foliage, a thick layer of mulch is like tucking in a blanket against the cold.

In addition to protecting plants during winter months and deterring next season’s weeds, mulch retains moisture in the soil and enriches it as it breaks down. There are several different ways to go when adding mulch to your garden. You can buy either natural or artificial mulch, or use materials that are already available in your yard.

Free mulch
If your property has mature trees, there’s little point in mulching before the leaves have fallen. Any mulch you buy will be covered up, and besides, with all of the organic material raining down it’s both practical and environmentally sound to use what you have. Don’t bag it and your landfill will thank you; don’t burn it and your neighbors will thank you. Leaves are a natural mulch that can both protect your plants and amend your soil—they are full of nutrients such as potassium, carbon, and phosphorous—and if you have heavy clay soil, they will help to lighten it over time.

As we all know, leaves will blow around in dry blustery weather, while in wet weather whole leaves can compact into a mat and prevent rain from penetrating, so it’s important to shred them before adding to your garden. One of the easiest ways to do this while also cleaning up your yard is to mow the fallen leaves. This works best with a limited amount of material, as heavy leaf fall will overwhelm most mowers. For bigger jobs, a leaf vacuum is invaluable. It looks like a push mower, but the blades shred the leaves into a large capacity bag. There are also vacuum attachments for ride-on mowers.

It’s perfectly fine to include grass clippings with shredded leaves, as they will break down quickly and add further nutrients. Just be sure not to use too much, since a thick layer of grass can get wet and moldy. One further warning: Grass that has weed killers or pesticides could carry that into your garden and potentially cause damage.

Pine needles can also be used as mulch, though again they can blow around if used on their own. They are somewhat acidic but become more neutral as they break down, so unless you’re working them directly into your soil, your plants probably won’t be affected.

And of course, if you have a compost pile, compost makes an excellent mulch. Whichever mulch you use, remove any dead branches on shrubs and any faded seasonal stuff before spreading it. This will ensure your garden beds look neat and are prepared for the next growing season.

Natural mulch
If you don’t have your own raw material available, or you prefer to purchase landscaping mulch, there are various options. Shredded hardwood bark is often a byproduct of lumber and paper industries, ergo part of the recycling process. Wood chips, or bark nuggets, are another alternative. They are slow to break down and so will last longer than shredded bark, but they do float and can wash away in heavy rain. Both bark and chips are available in multiple colors, including shades of red, brown, and black. If you have pets, be aware that dark mulch might stain their paws and potentially track into the house.

Straw is mostly used for vegetable gardens and does a good job of controlling mud. Just be sure there are no seeds in it, or come spring they’ll turn into weeds.

Mulch alternatives
For homeowners wanting a long-lasting mulch, rubber mulch—made from recycled tires—has been suggested.

While it won’t host termites or nuisance pests, it also won’t host beneficial bugs. Nor does it improve your soil; in fact, it’s more likely to leach chemicals into your garden. Add to that the fact that it is flammable, and rubber is generally not recommended by landscapers as a mulch material.

Pea gravel, however, makes a fine alternative to organic mulch. Not to be confused with regular gravel, pea gravel has a smooth, round shape and comes in various earthy tones. Its attractive appearance makes it a great choice for both garden beds and paths. While it won’t decompose, it will get hotter than organic mulch, so be careful with delicate plants. It also does best with some sort of edging to prevent it from escaping its borders over time.

How much mulch?
If you’re mulching more than a small area, it’s best to skip lugging home bags of mulch from the garden center and order a delivery. Local nurseries and landscape businesses often sell mulch by the pallet or scoop. One cubic yard of mulch will cover a 10 x 10 area with about three inches of material. A scoop of mulch is generally about 1.25 cubic yards, giving you about 120 square feet of coverage.

No matter which kind you choose, a blanket of mulch will enhance your winter curb appeal and make for happy plants now and into the next growing season. Whether you use what you have from your garden, or buy an attractive finishing touch from your local landscape business, now is a smart time to tackle this important garden project.  ✦

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Is Your Backyard Safe for Your Family?

Written by Admin and published on https://arbormagic.com/.

Your backyard is a wonderful place to be. Ideally, it should be an extension of your indoor living area, giving your children and pets (or just the child inside you) a place to romp and expend energy.

If you’re not careful, however, your backyard can also, unfortunately, be a dangerous place. While most lawns and gardens aren’t lying in wait to harm you, unintentional neglect can create the potential for injuries, accidents, and other mishaps. You can reduce the incidence of ER visits, hospitalizations and even death by taking just a few precautions to upgrade the safety of your outdoor space.

Is Your Backyard Safe?

As the weather gets warm, people begin to spend more time in the backyard. It’s wonderful! Summer is the perfect time to celebrate, to enjoy leisure time with family and friends under the green shades of the trees. But, what if someone gets hurt? What if the victim in a kid?

Well, it’s your responsibility to provide a safer environment in your garden to all. You cannot neglect a single sign of danger when it comes to the safety of your beloved ones.

To keep your garden safe, you can go for several practices like growing harmless plants, keeping the snakes and other such creatures away from your garden, cutting out the sick trees, building conventional boundaries, etc.  Among all these, the simplest yet effective method is Tree pruning.

Pruning is the most traditional method of tree maintenance. It is not just a great way to ensure your safety, but this practice is beneficial for the trees as well.

Here are various reasons to go for this practice:

• This practice reduces the risk of tree fall. Thus, provides a peace of mind to you!
• As it controls the size and height of the tree, it gives a structural look to the tree. Just remove the old and dense branches, and see how amazing your tree looks!
• It removes the dead and decay parts. Thus, serve the trees with a golden chance to grow healthy.
• This method also helps in improving the quality of flowers and fruits one gets from the trees. Go for this practice and enjoy the tastiest fruits!
• Pruning supports the branches in raising high and providing better-shaded area.
• Tree pruning in the summer prevents the spread of disease. Thus, it not just enhances the health of a tree, but also increases its lifespan.
• Pruning is also necessary to increase the air and light penetration inside the crown of the tree.

How to check if your tree needs to be pruned?

• Hanging branches: The branches hanging over your house, power lines, or nearby the street road can be dangerous. Such branches need just a stroke of wind to fall, or might not that also. If you find any branch hanging, get it pruned.
• Oozing Sap: It is commonly seen that the trees bleed in summer. It is not dangerous but is uncomforting as it is sticky and dirty. Make your backyard lovely and comfortable by removing such trees.
• Tangled Branches: If you find the branches rubbing each other or making criss-cross pattern, the tree requires to be pruned. This is so because the rubbing branches can damage itself and make the tree weak. As this reduces the contact with air and light, it makes the tree more vulnerable to diseases. Make the tree healthier by eliminating such branches. This is also useful for giving a magnificent look to your backyard.
• Dead and Decayed part: A diseased, dead part can be harmful to the proper growth of a tree. It prevents the supply of proper nourishment to the whole tree and weakens it from inside day by day. You cannot wait for the day when the tree becomes too weak to fall. Get it pruned.

As now you are aware of what Tree pruning is and why it is necessary, go for it. So, that if someone asks you, “Is your backyard safe?”, you won’t hesitate to reply with a “Yes.”

Even though it is always good to ask an arborist to do the tree pruning, you can also do it on your own if you have the precise knowledge and required types of equipment. It’s true that a landscaped yard gives a million buck look to your home, but a secure and fascinating backyard can make it appear incredible!

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What Kills Trees Quickly

Written by Ticara Gailliard and published on https://www.hunker.com/.

Trees are typically prized within landscapes for their attractive appearance and sometimes for the shade or fruit they provide. When a tree is diseased, unattractive, invasive, has outgrown the site or is simply no longer desired in a certain position, however, a homeowner may opt to remove or kill the tree. Herbicide use can generally expedite the tree killing process, though it is not necessary.

Quick Ways to Kill Plants & Trees

Manicured gardens are a thing of pride and beauty, but sometimes invasive or unwanted plants and trees crop up where they shouldn’t. When this happens, choose one of several methods for killing plants and trees, either naturally or chemically. When deciding on which method to use, be sure to keep in mind that you could accidentally kill wanted plants.

Over- or Underwatering

Excessive watering of many plants is a surefire way to kill them. Unless a plant is aquatic or very tolerant of wet soil, too much water will cause the plant to die off. Novice gardeners often overwater for fear that they aren’t watering their plants enough. On a similar note, neglecting to water plants, especially indoor plants that don’t benefit from natural precipitation, will also lead to their demise. Few plants can survive very long without water, and denying a plant necessary water causes it to dry up and die.

Girdling and Paving

A method of killing trees specifically, girdling involves stripping the bark from around the circumference of the tree. When the bark is removed, the tree cannot disperse the food created in its leaves down to its roots. This method of killing a tree takes a few weeks to work. Similarly, paving over a tree cuts off access to the roots as well, which will eventually kill the tree completely.

Salt and Vinegar

Both salt and vinegar effectively kill off plants. Salt dehydrates plants when water is added, causing them to die. Vinegar, when mixed with water, can be sprayed onto plants and around the soil to soak into the roots. However, with both substances, care must be taken. Salt can damage the ground and make it hard for anything else to grow there for a long time. Vinegar may not corrupt the soil, but it may kill plants that you want to keep. To avoid this, surround the unwanted plants with some kind of barrier, such as a cut two-liter soda bottle, and spray directly within the area.

Chemicals

Getting rid of unwanted plants and trees can be as simple as digging into your household cleaners. Borax, WD-40 and bleach all prevent plants from growing and will kill them. Once the chemicals have killed the unwanted plants, dig them up and dispose of them to prevent them from rooting again. As with salt and vinegar, care should be taken to ensure that wanted plants aren’t affected.

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Do Trees Grow Back From Stumps?

Written by Brian Barth and published on https://homeguides.sfgate.com/.

Your faithful old tree has finally fallen. Maybe it got too sick or it was struck by lightning. In any case, most dead trees are reduced down to stumps. After that happens, you might have an odd question: can a tree grow back from a tree stump?

Can Stumps Grow Back?

Gardeners often fret over plants that are hard to grow, but plants that are hard to kill pose another challenge. The stumps of most woody species regrow after they are cut, and some tenacious trees and shrubs sprout again and again, even if they are repeatedly cut to the ground. Almost all deciduous species possess this trait to some degree, though it is not as common among evergreen coniferous shrubs and trees.

Stump Sprouting

Stump sprouting is a natural mechanism for plant regeneration. It allows a forest to return after a fire and prevents the death of saplings after they have been browsed by deer. A root system stores some of the energy produced in photosynthesis and directs it into new growth from the stump. Stump sprouting can be managed intentionally to create shrubby forms of large trees and to stimulate the growth of long, straight sprouts to harvest as fence posts, garden stakes and decorative materials.

Inherent Problems

A tree that has a single trunk makes numerous sprouts after it has been cut so only a stump remains. If the sprouts are allowed to grow, a multitrunked tree develops over time, with the long limbs growing at an angle to the stump. Those new trunks are prone to storm damage, often cracking at their connection to the stump. Repeated cutting worsens the problem. All new foliage generates energy that is stored in the roots, which is why some stumps seem to sprout indefinitely. The root crown gets bigger every year in a tree or shrub managed this way, making digging out the stump more difficult that it would be otherwise.

Mechanical Control

If all new growth is removed as soon as it emerges from a stump, the energy reserves in the root system become exhausted and the plant dies. Mowing the sprouts of a stump in a lawn achieves the goal, though the stump must be cut flush to the ground for the mower to pass over it. Remove the stump of a small tree or shrub with a shovel and pick ax. Using a backhoe or stump-grinder is the only option for removing a large tree stump. When using tools or equipment that causes wood chips to fly into the air, be sure to wear protective eyewear.

Chemical Control

A broad-spectrum herbicide, such as glyphosate, offers a less laborious solution for killing a stubborn stump. Do not dilute the glyphosate and use it in the concentrated form. Paint the herbicide on the all surfaces of the stump late in the growing season for the best results. Injuring the stump, or trunk, by drilling holes or hacking into it with a hatchet allows better penetration of the herbicide chemical to the actively growing plant cells. Once the chemical enters the plant’s “blood stream,” it is distributed quickly throughout living tissues, and the plant is unlikely to live another season.

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Can Tree Roots Damage Your House Foundation?

Written by Edens Structural Solutions and published on https://edensstructural.com/.

You want your home to look so stunning that it makes the neighborhood talk. And to your knowledge, you have accomplished just that. Your yard boasts a verdant lawn, lush flowerbeds, and a group of gorgeous, mature trees. You have placed everything just so for maximum aesthetic effect.

However, you’ve notice those trees’ roots growing ever closer to your foundation, your driveway, or your main sewer line, and you feel a little nervous. You’ve heard stories about tree roots breaking through these items and causing expensive repairs-and you don’t want to share in that experience.

When Trees Attack: How Tree Roots Damage Your Foundation

Everyone loves the look of a majestic tree in the front yard or supporting a tree house for the kids out back, but might that tree pose certain risks for your home? Under certain circumstances, an otherwise desirable tree can pose a significant threat to your home’s foundation.

Here’s what you need to know about the risks, and what you can do to prevent problems down the road.

How tree roots affect the soil

Tree roots are very powerful — even small, newly forming roots. Because they are driven to find more sources of water and nutrients, tree roots constantly extend themselves in the search. What happens as a result of these movements depends on the kind of soil the tree is planted in.

There are two primary types of soil that will can be substantially affected by tree growth, and the effects are different for them. The first is soil composed primarily of clay. Clay soils compact easily, and become more densely packed as tree roots push through them.

Soil that consists of loose dirt and rocks, on the other hand, simply tends to shift and become displaced, which allows roots to move through it more easily. It’s highly useful to know which type of soil your home sits on because that should tell you the kind of damage that tree roots may have in store for your residence.

Another way that trees can affect the soil beneath them relates to prevailing weather conditions. During droughts, roots may shrink as clay soils dry; during heavy rains, the roots may expand as they absorb water. Both shrinkage and expansion can damage the structural integrity of soil.

Concrete settling and foundation damage

To be fair, tree roots themselves are not the direct cause of foundation damage, though many homeowners believe they are. Instead, the changes in the condition of the soil are what actually cause most of the damage to home foundations.

This most often manifests itself in the form of concrete settling. In many situations, concrete settling is only unsightly, but sometimes it can also be dangerous.

When concrete settles, it is more likely to shift and crack. Depending on how significant the movement is, the overall structure of your home may be affected. If concrete only cracks due to root activity, homes — especially newer homes — may not be disrupted at all.

When concrete shifts because of settling, residential foundations may be more substantially impacted. In extreme cases, particularly with older homes, the entire house structure may suffer damage.

Support beams may shift, walls may sink or crack, and ceilings may become uneven. Though concrete settling is not always a hazard, too often it can cause basic structural damage in older homes.

Other causes of foundation damage

It’s all too easy to blame trees for causing foundation damage because industrial societies regard them as invaders in developed areas. But there are many human interventions that can cause foundation damage.

Such factors include poorly insulated basements, gardens planted by homeowners, and drainage pipes. All of these can cause soil dehydration and concrete settling.

How to prevent root-related damage

If you’re concerned about the potential for roots damaging your foundation, you can take a number of steps to protect yourself. In most cases, concerns arise after the foundation has been laid and nearby trees have already been long in place.

One way to address the issue is to build a root barrier. In order to do so, you may have to dig all the way down to the base of your home’s foundation. You can cut away roots that are approaching your foundation while you’re digging for the barrier.

The process can be a hassle, but it’s better than merely trusting that your home will be left undamaged by weather cycles and root growth.

If you’re determined to plant a new tree in your yard, another way to subvert the threat of root damage is to select a slow-growing tree species that has less aggressive rooting tendencies. Steer clear of willows, silver maples, and elm trees that spread deep and insidious roots, and go for oak or sugar maple trees that grow more slowly.

Another way to prevent tree roots from causing damage is to reconsider your plans for tree planting in the area around your home. One of the main issues to consider before planting a tree is how large your yard is.

It’s a common belief that a tree will develop roots as broad as the tree is tall, but this is a misconception that underestimates the facts. Actually, a tree can develop roots that are two to three times its height.

If you can’t provide adequate space for the tree’s roots, then you should think about trying something smaller or a different landscaping option altogether.

If you’re building a new structure, you can take a number of steps to prevent root damage in the future. One of the most common causes of foundation damage is an insufficiently deep foundation.

This is why homes with full basements are far less vulnerable to root damage and concrete settling than older homes built on shallow foundations. Those shallow foundations are far more vulnerable to dried-out soil conditions and shifts, whereas full basements offer significant structural protection.

Don’t start cutting down trees immediately if you’re worried about invasive roots. This is often unnecessary and it can be avoided by using such strategies as a root barrier.

An analysis of your soil type and foundation status can also demonstrate that roots are not a major threat to your home. Cutting down trees should only be a last solution to a potential root problem.

Get foundation repair assistance

If you’ve noticed foundation damage and suspect tree roots, soil changes, or concrete settling, contact Edens Structural Solutions today! Our team of professionals can help you assess any concerns you have about your foundation, and we offer a variety of repair options.

Contact us for your free consultation. We will examine your property, foundation, and any potential damage, and develop a suitable plan of action for your home or business.

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Tree Pruning Tools

Written by Precision Tree and published on https://www.precisiontreemn.com/.

The 1st step of doing great tree trimming is having the right tools. Great tree trimming can’t be done with a pair of scissors or a hack saw because the right tools keep the tree healthy and looking great. The best reason to have the right tools is your safety because you can’t take care of your trees unless you take care of yourself.

5 Must-Have Tree Pruning Tools

Pruning not only helps keep your landscaping beautiful, but it’s also necessary to promote tree growth and health. In order to do your best pruning, you’ll need the right tools to get it all done.

Here’s Our List of Must-Have Tools for Pruning Trees:

1. Pruning shears (or pruners, clippers or secateurs)

These are probably the most-used tool when it comes to pruning shrubs, flowers, vines, and small growth on trees. Pruning shears are hand-held and can cut branches and twigs up to ¾ of an inch thick.

There are three basic types of pruning shears: anvil, bypass, and ratchets.

A bypass is the most popular of the three and acts like scissors. It is good for growing stems.

Anvil pruners feature a straight blade that uses a splitting action. They work well for dry branches and stems.

Ratchet pruners are similar to anvil pruners, but they feature a mechanism that cuts in stages. Ratchet pruners are good for those who don’t want to strain their wrists. GardeningProductsReview.com has an article on the best hand pruners complete with information on many different brands.

2. Loppers

Great for branches up to 2 ½ inches thick and are especially useful for pruning fruit trees, nut trees, and vines. This tool is really similar to a pair of hand shears but the blades are thicker and the handle is much longer. Loppers also come in anvil, bypass and ratchet styles.

3. Pruning Saws

Next in the pruning tool lineup is a pruning saw which is capable of taking on branches from 1 ½ to 5 inches in diameter and are available in many different styles.

4. Hedge Shears

Hedge shears are great if you have hedges, small shrubs, evergreens, or deadheading perennials. They can be used on any hedge shrub and cut branches up to 2 ¼ inches thick.

5. Pole Pruner

To reach dead wood in trees or for light pruning, a pole pruner (tree pruner) is a must-have. Pole pruners can generally be used on any tree and can cut through branches up to 1 ¼ inch in diameter. The best part is that most pole pruners can reach 8 feet or more, eliminating the need for a ladder in many cases. It’s also important to note that there are electric pole pruners, too.

Caring for Your Tools

Having the right tools isn’t any good if they aren’t kept in proper working order. Keeping them clean is a top priority. Not only can tree sap gum everything up, but tree diseases can spread from tree to tree. Carry a rag in your pocket to wipe down blades between uses, and if you’ve been pruning diseased branches, wipe down the blade with alcohol before moving on to another plant.

Also, keeping blades sharp is very important. The Family Handyman has a great article with instructions on how to sharpen pruning shears and other garden tools.

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Why is Tree Planting Important?

Written by Savatree and published on https://www.savatree.com/.

Since the beginning, trees have furnished us with two of life’s essentials, food and oxygen. As we evolved, they provided additional necessities such as shelter, medicine, and tools. Today, their value continues to increase and more benefits of trees are being discovered as their role expands to satisfy the needs created by our modern lifestyles.

Climate change, global warming, climate protests – these are not just buzz words, these are the words used by the younger generation to raise their concerns about our environment and it is time that everybody started listening to their message. There is a growing movement around the world that is focusing on protecting the earth for future generations and every action counts. You don’t need to protest on the streets to make a contribution to the survival of our planet, planting trees can go a long way towards restoring the health of the earth.

Importance and Value of Trees

Since the beginning, trees have furnished us with two of life’s essentials, food and oxygen. As we evolved, they provided additional necessities such as shelter, medicine, and tools. Today, their value continues to increase and more benefits of trees are being discovered as their role expands to satisfy the needs created by our modern lifestyles.

Community & Social Value

Trees are an important part of every community. Our streets, parks, playgrounds and backyards are lined with trees that create a peaceful, aesthetically pleasing environment. Trees increase our quality of life by bringing natural elements and wildlife habitats into urban settings. We gather under the cool shade they provide during outdoor activities with family and friends. Many neighborhoods are also the home of very old trees that serve as historic landmarks and a great source of town pride.

Using trees in cities to deflect the sunlight reduces the heat island effect caused by pavement and commercial buildings.

Ecological & Environmental Value

Trees contribute to their environment by providing oxygen, improving air quality, climate amelioration, conserving water, preserving soil, and supporting wildlife. During the process of photosynthesis, trees take in carbon dioxide and produce the oxygen we breathe. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, “One acre of forest absorbs six tons of carbon dioxide and puts out four tons of oxygen. This is enough to meet the annual needs of 18 people.” Trees, shrubs and turf also filter air by removing dust and absorbing other pollutants like carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen dioxide. After trees intercept unhealthy particles, rain washes them to the ground.

Trees control climate by moderating the effects of the sun, rain and wind. Leaves absorb and filter the sun’s radiant energy, keeping things cool in summer. Trees also preserve warmth by providing a screen from harsh wind. In addition to influencing wind speed and direction, they shield us from the downfall of rain, sleet and hail. Trees also lower the air temperature and reduce the heat intensity of the greenhouse effect by maintaining low levels of carbon dioxide.

Both above and below ground, trees are essential to the eco-systems in which they reside. Far reaching roots hold soil in place and fight erosion. Trees absorb and store rainwater which reduce runoff and sediment deposit after storms. This helps the ground water supply recharge, prevents the transport of chemicals into streams and prevents flooding. Fallen leaves make excellent compost that enriches soil.

Many animals, including elephants, koalas and giraffes eat leaves for nourishment. Flowers are eaten by monkeys, and nectar is a favorite of birds, bats and many insects. Animals also eat much of the same fruit that we enjoy This process helps disperse seeds over great distances. Of course, hundreds of living creatures call trees their home. Leaf-covered branches keep many animals, such as birds and squirrels, out of the reach of predators.

Personal & Spiritual Value

The main reason we like trees is because they are both beautiful and majestic. No two are alike. Different species display a seemingly endless variety of shapes, forms, textures and vibrant colors. Even individual trees vary their appearance throughout the course of the year as the seasons change. The strength, long lifespan and regal stature of trees give them a monument-like quality. Most of us react to the presence of trees with a pleasant, relaxed, comfortable feeling. In fact, many people plant trees as living memorials of life-changing events.

Trees help record the history of your family as they grow and develop alongside you and your kids. We often make an emotional connection with trees we plant or become personally attached to the ones that we see every day. These strong bonds are evidenced by the hundreds of groups and organizations across the country that go to great lengths to protect and save particularly large or historic trees from the dangers of modern development. How many of your childhood memories include the trees in your backyard or old neighborhood? The sentimental value of a special tree is simply immeasurable.

Learn more about the Expert Tree Service by SavATree

Practical & Commercial Value

Trees have supported and sustained life throughout our existence. They have a wide variety of practical and commercial uses. Wood was the very first fuel, and is still used for cooking and heating by about half of the world’s population. Trees provide timber for building construction, furniture manufacture, tools, sporting equipment, and thousands of household items. Wood pulp is used to make paper.

We are all aware of apples, oranges and the countless other fruits and nuts provided by trees, as well as the tasty syrup of North American sugar maples. But did you know the bark of some trees can be made into cork and is a source of chemicals and medicines? Quinine and aspirin are both made from bark extracts. The inner bark of some trees contains latex, the main ingredient of rubber. How many more uses can you name?

Property Value & Economic Value

Individual trees and shrubs have value and contribute to savings, but it is the collective influence of a well-maintained landscape that makes a real economic impact and has the greatest effect on property value. Direct economic benefits come from a savings in energy costs. Cooling costs are reduced in a tree-shaded home, and heating costs lowered when a tree serves as a windbreak. According to the USDA Forest Service, “Trees properly placed around buildings can reduce air conditioning needs by 30% and save 20-50 percent in energy used for heating.”

Property values of homes with well-maintained landscapes are up to 20% higher than others. Here are some eye-opening facts and statistics regarding the effect of healthy trees and shrubs:

• Homes with “excellent” landscaping can expect a sale price 6-7% higher than equivalent houses with “good” landscaping. Improving “average” to “good” landscaping can result in a 4-5% increase.– Clemson University
• Landscaping can bring a recovery value of 100-200% at selling time. (Kitchen remodeling brings 75-125%, bathroom remodeling 20-120%)– Money Magazine
• A mature tree can have an appraised value between $1000 and $10,000.– Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers
• 99% of real estate appraisers concurred that landscaping enhances the sales appeal of real estate.– Trendnomics, National Gardening Association
• 98% of realtors believe that mature trees have a “strong or moderate impact” on the salability of homes listed for over $250,000 (83% believe the same for homes listed under $150,000).– American Forests, Arbor National Mortgage

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