Ideally, growing trees should be fertilized throughout the year but a bit differently as trees age. A tree needs larger amounts of nitrogen (N) based fertilizer during the growing season. Nitrogen-based solutions should be applied during the early spring and summer months.
Planting trees can give most patches of the earth some color and character. Although trees generally do not require a ton of maintenance aside from regular watering and intermittent pruning, they do benefit from the occasional application of fertilizer.
How to Feed Your Tree
WHEN SHOULD YOU FEED YOUR TREE?
Spring and mid to late fall are excellent times for feeding. If you’d like to do it yourself, here are the ways we recommend:
FEEDING NEWLY PLANTED TREES
For new trees, use a root stimulant such as Bonide’s Plant Starter or Espoma’s Bio-tone. Both are light and easy feed for new trees and help promote early strong root development. Plant Starter is mixed with water and poured at the base of the tree. Bio-tone is added to the soil when backfilling around the tree.
PLANTED 1-2 YEARS
For trees planted 1-2 years, we recommend using a water-soluble fertilizer such as Bonide’s Plant Starter or Miracle-Gro, pouring the mixture around the base of the tree. The Ross Root Feeder is another option for water-soluble fertilizing. It’s a unique tool (attaches to your garden hose) that injects the water-soluble fertilizer right into the soil, as well as helping in light soil aeration. Also, this can be used as a watering tool without adding the fertilizer!
PLANTED 3 OR MORE YEARS
Fertilizing your lawn regularly with a lawn food helps to feed your existing trees.
Ross Root Feeders are an easy way to feed larger trees injecting a water-soluble fertilizer into the soil/root zone, as well as watering the tree and lightly aerating the soil. This is the same process professionals use to feed established and mature trees. Again, this tool is also an excellent way to water trees during periods of drought!
THE IMPORTANCE OF VERTICAL MULCHING
Vertical mulching is an excellent way to not only core aerate the soil around trees, but it can also be used to feed. Vertical mulching is the process of drilling a series of 2-inch diameter holes approximately 8 to 12 inches into the ground. These holes are drilled about 18-24 inches apart in a circular pattern, starting 6 feet or so away from the tree’s trunk, working your way out (circular pattern) to several feet past the drip line of the tree. The holes can be left open or backfilled with coarse products like sand, pea gravel, turface, or compost, followed by a good watering. This process opens up the soil around the tree for better airflow, better water absorption into the soil/root zone, and creating better areas for the roots to grow.
Vertical mulching can be used as a means of fertilizing the tree by adding a granular fertilizer to the backfill used to fill the open cores drilled around the tree. This also is an opportunity to apply soil amendments such as soil sulfur and Ironite for chlorotic trees. This is an excellent way to feed and helps improve the flow of air and water into the soil. It is time and labor-intensive, and maybe one to consider having a professional do for you!
CALCULATING THE AMOUNT OF FERTILIZER TO APPLY WITH VERTICAL MULCHING:
If using Espoma’s Tree-tone, Plant-tone, or Milorganite, read the label for amounts needed. Then, distribute the amount evenly into all the cored holes.
If using a fertilizer such as 10-10-10, look for a tree feeding rate on the bag. If nothing is available, then calculate using 1 pound per inch diameter, for tree trunks 1-6 inches in diameter. For those tree trunks 6 inches diameter or larger, use 3 pounds per inch diameter. Once finished, be sure to water with good soil soaking.
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Wrapping the trunk of your trees when they go dormant protects the bark from damage or possible splitting. Most tree growers know that maintaining the tree’s health in winter is crucial to ensure they’re all set for a successful growing season.
A tree wrap is a huge part of essential tree care in winter. Young trees are susceptible to girdling animals that dig holes up in a snug spot among your trees.
Besides, extreme cold can be stressful on trees, especially on saplings not yet able to establish a rooting system like mature trees.
Wrapping Trees for Winter
Prevent tree damage and death during harsh winter months. Knowing how to prepare and protect your trees through the coldest months of the year will help them grow and thrive when spring arrives.
thetreecareguide.com gathered information on wrapping trees for the winter and why it is essential to prepare and protect trees from hazards that come with cold weather.
Tree Wrap
When your trees are young, have thin bark, or are arborvitae, they require a bit of extra attention to make it through severe cold weather. When trying to decide how or if to wrap your tree, consider the following:
Deciduous Trees – During autumn months, deciduous trees not only lose their leaves, but their metabolism also slows down in preparation for dormancy. After planting, the trunk should be wrapped or protected from the root flare (at the bottom of the trunk) up to the first set of lower branches during the first five years.
Tree wraps should be made from a breathable material (burlap, Kraft paper, etc.) that does not adhere to the tree. These wraps protect the bark from suffering sunscald.
Tree protectors are generally made from a more sturdy material (vinyl, PVC, plastic) that loosely fit around the trunk and protect the tree from sunscald and wildlife. Specifically, deer that use tree trunks to rub their antlers.
Sunscald, also called southwest injury, occurs during late winter and early spring when:
Tree bark is exposed to cold or freezing temperatures
The sun comes out and heats up the bark (this activates tree cells, breaking dormancy)
The sun is then blocked or goes down, and the warmed bark rapidly drops in temperature
Exposure to such temperature fluctuations ends up damaging tree cells and can severely interrupt the phloem and xylem located beneath the bark. Sunscald will likely lead to:
Sunken, discolored areas of bark
The formation of cankers in affected areas
Bark cracking or splitting
Deciduous trees most susceptible to sunscald include young or newly planted trees, those trees suffering from drought conditions, and hardwoods with thin bark. At-risk species include:
Poplar
Aspen
Maple
Sycamore
Tip: For best results, avoid using material that adheres to tree bark or tightens/shrinks around the tree’s trunk.
Watch this video to see how to apply tree wrapping.
Evergreen Trees – Evergreens, like deciduous trees, can suffer crippling damage during winter months. If your evergreens have suffered from the following, they should be wrapped for the winter:
Newly planted or transplanted
Exposed to high or constant wind
Exposed to drought or exhibits signs of drought (yellowing, browning, or becoming brittle)
Has been affected by infestation or disease
Wrapping your evergreen trees and shrubs can be accomplished in several ways. Here are two effective methods:
Method One – For this method, you will physically wrap the tree with burlap:
Loosely wrap the tree from its base to its tip
Use twine (around the tree) to tie the bottom, middle, and top of the tree
Be careful not to tightly “mummify” the tree. The wrap should be able to breathe, and the twine should be snug but not tight enough to damage the foliage or branches.
Method Two – In this method, you are erecting a barrier around the tree and will need three stakes slightly taller than the tree:
Mark a triangle in the soil around the tree (large enough for the entire tree to fit inside)
One point of the triangle should be on the side of the tree that gets the most wind
Drive one stake in front of the tree (the side that gets the most wind)
Drive the other two stakes at the other points of the triangle
Stretch burlap around the tree, stapling it to the stakes as you go
The end result of this method should appear to be a triangular fence around your evergreen.
When To Remove Tree Wrap
Tree guards and wraps should be removed in early spring. Watch your deciduous trees and shrubs, when they break dormancy and begin their growing season, guards and wraps should come off.
While these protective materials can preserve your tree in the colder months, it can provide a perfect, moist environment for insect infestations and trunk disease growth.
As the growing season begins, be sure to remove guards and wraps before applying pest control products, and keep them off until needed for the next winter.
Tip: If you plant landscape trees in spring, leave the trunks unwrapped until late fall to allow the bark to harden/thicken.
Winter Tree Protection
Using tree wraps and guards is an effective way to preserve your trees’ health in their youth. However, the greatest way you can aide your trees is by promoting their health and vigorous growth. You can do this by:
Ensuring your trees are well-watered throughout the year
Mulching the root plate to conserve moisture and regulate ground temperature
Seasonally and properly prune
Fertilize when necessary
Prevent or immediately treat infestations and signs of disease
Note: The combination of proper watering and mulching helps prevent winter heaving (repeated ground freezing and thawing, that pushes roots to the surface).
Tip: Have all of your trees and landscape annually inspected by an arborist. Their trained eyes can help you avoid or correct issues that most people fail to detect until massive damage has already occurred.
Protecting Trees in Winter
In this article, you discovered information about wrapping trees and using tree guards to protect them from the dangers accompanying winter months.
Taking measures to protect your trees during winter helps them remain healthy and vigorously grow in the spring.
Leaving your trees exposed to the elements can cause severe damage, weakening your trees’ health, leaving them susceptible to disease and deadly infestation.
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Trees that shed their leaves annually, or deciduous trees enter a dormant state during fall or winter to help them survive the lower temperatures and the lack of water caused by icing and frost. This is a very good time for winter pruning, also called dormant tree pruning and 90% of the pruning can be done during this time.
The deciduous trees are still alive during winter dormancy. However, with the exception of some root growth when soil temperatures are favorable, the rest of the tree conserves energy by stopping growth and generally waiting out for the cold season to pass.
Deciduous Tree Pruning in the Dormant Season
Temperatures are beginning to plunge and winter is setting in. With the change in seasons, deciduous trees have either begun to or have completely shed their leaves, entering into dormancy.
Dormancy is one of the most amazing natural processes by which deciduous plants, shrubs and trees shed their leaves, slow their metabolism down, and conserve energy throughout the coldest months of the year.
When is the Dormant Season
Common knowledge is that the winter months are when dormancy occurs for deciduous trees, plants, and shrubs. While there is some truth to this, the dormant season is relative to two types of dormancy:
Predictive Dormancy – This type of dormancy occurs when deciduous trees, plants, and shrubs enter dormancy before the onset of freezing temperatures or the winter season. A common trigger of predictive dormancy is the falling autumn temperatures.
Consequential Dormancy – This type of dormancy occurs when deciduous trees, plants, and shrubs enter dormancy after the onset of adverse weather or winter.
In either case, the dormant season ends when the average temperature begins to rise again and the organisms begin to bud. Typically, this occurs in the beginning weeks of spring.
Pruning During Dormancy
The time to prune your trees and shrubs is now (the beginning of dormancy) or in early spring (just before they exit dormancy). Pruning in the beginning or end of the dormant season will save trees and shrubs from unnecessary shock, helping them maintain their form and structure. With less weight to carry and more light reaching the inner branches, they will come out of dormancy flourishing in the spring.
Only emergency cutting or pruning should be performed throughout the depth of the winter months. Once winter has set in, branches and extremities get brittle and pruning will end up doing more damage than good.
NOTE: Special attention must be given to oak and elm trees. The dormant season is the only time they should be pruned (with exception of emergency situations). Pruning, trimming or cutting during this time will help avoid the spread of Oak Wilt and Dutch Elm disease.
Tree Emergencies, Severe Weather, and Preventative Tree Care
During untimely snow storms, blizzards or harsh winter weather conditions, trees are more prone to injury. In a deep freeze with heavy snow accumulation, it is not uncommon for branches or limbs to break and fall.
NOTE: Evergreen trees, shrubs and plants do not lose all of their leaves in the winter months. They do in fact lose and replenish their foliage throughout the year and depend on stored water to prevent drying out or burning during the dormant season for deciduous trees.
Scheduling a tree professional to inspect your trees as the dormant season gets under way is an excellent start to preventative maintenance. It will also help you to avoid potentially devastating accidents possibly resulting in severe property damage and even loss of life. In this sense, the importance of proper tree care and maintenance cannot be overstated.
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Waiting for warmer spring weather can be like watching trees grow – a slow, and tortuous process. While you wait for winter to finally melt away, think about the springtime tree planting. One of the first things to consider when selecting any plant for a landscape should be the functional role the plant will play in the overall landscape.
Tree Planting Season Is Near, Learn 4 Essential Planting Tips
Most often trees are planted to either provide beauty or to offer refuge and shade to an area. Considering the fact that trees are not cheap, you want to protect your investment and ensure the trees you invest your time into grow and become healthy mature trees.
Your tree selection, planting location, and the care provided during and after newly planted trees are in the soil are determining factors of whether your trees grow and flourish.
For Most Regions Fall is the Season to Plant New Trees
Ideally, trees are planted during the dormant season when weather conditions are cool. This schedule allows plants and trees to establish roots in their new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulates new growth.
A good time to accomplish said goal is in the fall after the leaves drop. In situations were this season passes, early spring would be your next best opportunity for your planting.
Many regions in the United States experience all four seasons, but take note that in tropical climates trees grow year round. Thus, given there isn’t a drought and water is readily available, any time works to plant a new tree.
Proper Tree Selection and Planting Location Is Critical
Available space is probably the consideration most overlooked or misunderstood when deciding what tree to plant and where to plant it. Before you plant, it is important to have a general understanding of its size and what the tree will look like as it nears maturity.
Small trees need to be placed anywhere from 6 feet to around 15 feet away from other trees or property structures. Larger trees naturally need more space, and should be allotted from 15 to 50 feet apart.
As mentioned, proper spacing depends on knowing a trees probable mature height, crown spread and root growth. The right placement will avoid collisions with power lines, buildings, and in the event of a storm mitigate your need for an emergency removal service or damage to your structure.
Plan for Exposure to the Sun and Shade the Tree Will Provide
Sun exposure and soil requirements of the species are additional factors you must consider when choosing the type of tree you will plant. Areas that have intense sun exposure will dry the soil leaving it lacking the moisture that some species require.
With proper research and an effective landscape design, you can produce a yard that will cool your home during the summer months, deflect the winter wind, and produce the aesthetics that will increase your property demand and resell value.
Caring for Newly Planted Trees
When the root system of a tree is dug up from it’s native environment, a common reaction is a state of reduced growth known as transplant shock. This is expected, but an arborist or tree planting expert takes steps during its planting to reduce this effect and ensure a speedy recovery. However, what’s done after the tree is in the ground will largely affect how it recovers from this planting stress.
Consider these points before aimlessly planting new trees, and the likelihood they grow into healthy mature trees will increase. Never hesitate to call a tree professional.
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Lightning can undoubtedly be considered as one of the greatest threats to massive trees. As a matter of fact, every year, thousands of trees get struck by lightning. Moreover, it has long been proven that taking shelter under a tall tree in a thunderstorm is one of the most ill-advised things to do.
Being usually the tallest object around a given area makes a tree a natural lightning rod during tempestuous weather. There have even been recorded instances of trees getting blasted by lightning in sunny weather! And with more than 100 lightning strikes happening around the world every second, there’s a fairly good chance that your tree might get hit one of these days.
MY TREE WAS STRUCK BY LIGHTNING. WHAT DO I DO?
Across the world, lightning strikes millions of times per day. Each bright bolt poses a threat to nearby trees, and sometimes our treasured plants suffer well after a storm has passed.
One of those troubled trees belongs to Anita, a Davey blog reader. She reached out to ask about the best next steps for a maple in her yard that fell victim to lightning damage. She said: “Our large maple tree was apparently struck by lightning about three years ago. At first, we noticed a couple of dead branches, and this year half of the tree has no leaves and appears dead. Should we cut it down?”
Anita poses a great question: lightning can injure trees to the point that they need to be removed for safety. But, let’s dig a little deeper into what could be going on with your lightning-struck tree.
MY TREE WAS STRUCK BY LIGHTNING. WHAT DO I DO NOW?
First and foremost, any hanging or broken branches should be removed ASAP. If they’re too large for you to remove on your own, have a certified arborist do the job.
Lightning damage also warrants a tree inspection. As you’ll read below, it’s hard to say if a tree will or won’t bounce back from a lightning strike, so it’s best to get an arborist’s opinion.
SIGNS THAT A TREE WAS STRUCK BY LIGHTNING
The tricky thing about lightning damage is that it can be very subtle, if not completely unnoticeable. Lightning strikes the inside of a tree, targeting a layer underneath the bark that we can’t see. So it’s not uncommon for a tree to look totally normal for days or even weeks and then slowly decline. Or, some trees die shortly after a storm.
Sometimes, though, the inner damage does affect the outer parts of the tree. In this case, lightning damage looks like:
A crack or slit that runs down the tree’s trunk
Chunks of bark stripped off the tree
Sparse leaves; or wilted leaves throughout the canopy
“Burned” or blackened areas of bark
WILL MY TREE DIE IF IT’S STRUCK BY LIGHTNING?
Not necessarily. Some trees can overcome the damage after being struck. But the fate of your tree depends on a lot of factors—its health, its species, its age and even its location. Plus, even if your tree didn’t die from a strike per se, it may have been wounded, leaving an entryway for insects or pathogens to attack and weaken the tree in the long term.
That being said, the general consensus is trees that were only stuck on one side of the trunk have a pretty good chance at survival. But if both sides of a tree are damaged, it will likely need to be removed.
HOW TO PROTECT MY TREE FROM LIGHTNING DAMAGE
Hands down, a lightning protection system is a tree’s best defense against harmful bolts. The system diverts lightning away from the tree by giving it a different path to the ground. Keep in mind that no system is 100% guaranteed to prevent damage, so consult with a certified arborist if you’re interested in having a lightning protection system installed.
In the meantime, a little TLC can go a long way both before and after lightning damage. Making sure your tree is supplied with mulch, well-watered, fertilized and pruned keeps it strong before the storm and will help it during the recovery process.
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Wounds attract pests due to the phytochemicals dispersed from exposed tissue. When tree tissue is damaged or wounded, the newly uncovered tissue is exposed and that is when to expect an attack. Insect pests are drawn to trees in distress, feeding on the tissue and weakening the tree. Diseases affecting trees will introduce enzymes into the cells, digesting living tissue responsible for food and water translocation (phloem and xylem) or structural support resulting in unhealthy, unsightly, or unsafe trees.
Homemade Tree Wound Remedies
Whether broken during storm winds or cut during pruning, any break in the bark of a tree is considered to be a wound. Trees have a natural healing response that seals off and compartmentalizes the damage they receive. This natural response is impeded by homemade tree wound remedies such as petroleum and latex based paints, which are only recommended as protection in areas with a high prevalence of tree diseases. There are better methods of helping trees to recover from wounds.
Tree Wound Response
Trees seal off damaged areas, both inside and outside, rather than actually healing the damaged wood. On the outside, trees form callus wood that slowly grows around the edges of the wound so that new, healthy wood covers old injuries. The damaged wood is eventually covered, but remains in the tree. On the inside, the tree creates barriers to control the spread of fungi and other microorganisms. The tree’s sap and resins plug the water and nutrient transport vessels, creating both a physical and a chemical deterrent to decay.
Problem With Painted Remedies
The tree’s natural remedies require the infiltration of oxygen into the wounded wood. Painted remedies that seal off an area from the environment are meant to keep out disease, insects and microorganisms. However, they also keep out the oxygen that the tree needs to complete its own healing response. As a result, wood decay is often accelerated behind the homemade or commercial painted remedies. In some areas, disease transmission and invasive insects are a prominent danger to tree health, such as areas susceptible to oak wilt and invasive beetles. In such cases, a thin layer of fungicide or insecticide can be painted over the wound.
Pruning as a Remedy
Pruning a broken branch back to a better place is usually the recommended method of helping the tree to heal its wound. A tree can more easily cover a clean pruning cut with callus tissue than a rough break from strong winds or heavy snow and ice. If you are trying to help a tree heal from broken branches, prune the branch back to the edge of the branch collar, rather than flush with the trunk for the best healing. Remove dangerous, hanging branches as soon as possible, but final pruning should done in late winter or early spring just before the sap begins to rise in the wood again and insect populations are low. Before and after pruning a tree, disinfect your tools with alcohol or other household disinfectants to prevent disease transmission, making sure to dry the tool so the disinfectant does not contact the tree.
Water and Fertilizer as a Remedy
If a tree is stressed from environmental factors, its healing response will be slower than the response of a healthy tree, putting it at risk. Make sure the tree is adequately watered. Examine other branches and leaves to see if recent growth has been slow, indicating the tree needs to be fertilized. Mulching around the base of the tree, beginning a foot away from the trunk and making a bed several inches deep, will help keep nutrients and moisture near the roots where they are needed. Mulch beds also prevent root injury from landscaping equipment and animal damage.
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We all want our trees to grow up perfectly straight without any worrisome bends or leans, but that doesn’t always happens. Leaning trees are not uncommon and because of that, we get a lot of questions from concerned tree-parents about crooked or angled trees. Here’s what you need to know about leaning trees, what to look for, and how to fix them.
Some trees grow well when shaded beneath a taller tree or in the shade of a building, while others will twist and lean to get a full share of sunlight. Many shorter-growing flowering trees, for example, grow perfectly straight even when placed right next to a taller tree, but many taller trees need plenty of room and will lean if they are too crowded.
Leaning Trees – How To Straighten A Leaning Tree Of Any Size
Leaning trees are a landscape flaw as well as a health hazard. How many times have you looked at a leaning tree in your yard and felt satisfied with your handiwork? Chances are you avoid looking in the direction of the tree, let alone go near it. Whether it’s the mighty oak, the stately cassia, or the elegant Japanese maple, trees lean for various reasons.
However, there’s no need to take drastic measures such as cut down the tree and start all over again because no matter what the size or age of the leaning trees, you can still fix their awry posture. This goes for young trees as well as large ones. Cutting leaning trees should be the last option on your list.
So what makes trees lean? And how would you go about straightening the tree without damaging the trunk, main branches, or roots? Read on to find out all about the causes of leaning trees and how to fix the bent trunks.
Causes of Leaning Trees
Despite your best efforts and no matter how much gardening experience you have, leaning trees can happen at any time. Sometimes it’s actually your fault as you might have picked the wrong spot for this type of tree. But in most cases, the reasons would have to do with the elements, the unstable soil, or unpredictable weather patterns. Here are some of the main causes of leaning trees.
Underdeveloped Roots: One of the main causes of leaning trees is the roots themselves. A robust root system usually keeps the tree stable in the ground. But if for some reason, the roots don’t develop fully before the tree starts growing, the top-heavy tree will keel over.
Wind: If you live in an area that gets steady and strong wind, then you need to protect your tree at least in the first few years of its life until it has been established in the soil. The relentless wind will make the tree lean in the other direction.
Unstable Soil: Unlike plants and shrubs that thrive in loose and loamy soil, trees need stable soil that offers support to their roots. If you plant the young tree in sandy soil, by the time it develops its heavy canopy, the soil will not be able to keep it standing upright.
Wrong Timing: Most trees need to be planted at a specific time of the year. Usually, that would be in the early spring to take advantage of the warm soil and the favorable weather conditions. If you plant the tree in the fall instead of the early spring, the frost and freezing soil will stunt its growth. The roots won’t have enough time to develop, and the tree would start to lean under the weight of its heavy branches.
Moist Soil: Even if the soil is dense and heavy enough to support the mature tree, constant moisture in the soil can weaken it and put the tree in jeopardy. When planting a tree, make sure the spot you choose is away from running water and doesn’t get waterlogged often.
Straighten Young Leaning Trees
Young trees are more susceptible to leaning problems than large ones. That’s because the root system is still developing, which makes it vulnerable to anything from strong wind to wet or unstable soil. And when we say a young tree, we mean a tree that’s less than one year old. However, since the tree trunk is still thin and young, that means it’s easy to fix the leaning tree at this stage of its life. This is how you fix a young leaning tree in easy steps.
You can either use a wooden or metal stake as long as it’s sturdy.
Drive the stake into the ground close to the tree using a sledgehammer.
Make sure you’re outside the area where the root system of the tree grows.
Place the stake in the same direction where the wind comes from and position it at a 45-degree angle.
Use a garden hose to get the soil around the tree base thoroughly wet.
Stand in the direction where the tree is leaning and place both your hands against the trunk of the tree right above where the tree starts to lean.
Press your hands against the tree, applying even and steady pressure.
Once the root ball shifts and the tree trunks yield under your pressure, pack the soil with your feet to stabilize the root ball.
Tie a rope around the tree and fasten it to the stake. Make sure it’s secure, but it should allow the tree to sway a little.
It will take up to a year for the tree roots to develop and the tree to anchor itself. Then you can remove the rope and the stake.
How to Straighten Large Leaning Trees
Unlike young trees, large and established trees are not that easy to fix. They won’t yield easily to pressure due to the thickness of the trunk and the robust root ball of a tree this size. As you might expect, stakes alone will not work well with large leaning trees. Instead, you will be digging a trench to help straighten the tree. Here’s how to do it in simple steps.
Measure the thickest part of the trunk using a measuring tape. This will give you an idea of how large the ditch will be.
Use a shovel to dig a trench two feet deep around the base of the tree. The idea is to free the roots to make it easier to straighten the tree trunk.
The width of the trench should be relative to the size of the trunk. For every one inch of the tree trunk, dig 10 inches in the ground.
When done digging the trench, wrap a thick pad or a few old blankets around the tree trunk to protect the bark.
Wrap a sturdy and thick rope around the tree trunk and tie it securely.
Tie the other end of the rope to a tractor or a car. If you have enough manpower, then you won’t need the vehicle.
Pull at the rope slowly but steadily until the tree responds to you.
Don’t try to pull the tree straight up in one go. This could damage the roots beyond repair. Instead, pull it up in small increments.
When the tree is fully upright, refill the trench and pack the soil around the base.
You might need to keep the tree tethered to the ground for a few months until the root ball anchors in the soil.
Tips for Fixing Leaning Trees
Although the above steps to fixing leaning trees seem simple enough, they are anything but. Unforeseen circumstances could arise and complicate the process of straightening the tree up. The following tips will come in handy, and they are relevant to all tree ages and sizes.
Always go easy on the tree trunk when bending it up. The tree has been in this position for months, so yanking it back upwards could damage the trunk and the root system. Medium-size and large trees could take months to become fully upright.
Give the straightened tree enough space to grow. You might have to prune any trees around it to improve air movement and sun exposure.
When the straightened tree is well anchored in the ground, you can remove the ropes and stakes.
The ties you put around the tree trunks are not permanent. Even if you put them there for only a year, the tree will grow during that period. So you need to adjust the knot and allow the tree room to grow and sway.
Always use a pad around the trunk before you tie the rope. This will protect the bark.
Established trees need extra care when handling their roots. Make sure the roots are loosened in advance, or you might damage them.
After straightening the large tree, fill back the trench and pack the soil firmly. You can mix the soil with fertilizer and water the tree to help the soil settle.
How to Prevent Leaning Trees Problem
As you can see, it takes a lot of time and effort to get the leaning trees straightened up and pointing to the sky again. So what can you do to prevent this problem from ever happening to your trees? Here are a few considerations for you when choosing a new tree to plant in your yard or your garden.
As every arborist will tell you, you should only plant trees that are suited to your region or zone. Adverse weather conditions can have a negative impact on the tree’s growth.
Always plant the new tree in the right season. When in doubt, you can consult with the nursery where you bought the tree.
When selecting a spot for the young tree, make sure there’s enough space for the mature tree. It shouldn’t be too close to a wall or a fence that could push the trunk the other way and cause it to lean.
Trees with invasive roots shouldn’t be planted near underground pipes, sidewalks, or driveways. The roots could get entangled with the structures near them, which affects the stability of the tree.
Look for the right fertilizer for your specific tree species. Both organic and chemical fertilizers can boost the growth of the tree and help it establish faster.
Water is important for the tree, especially in the first few years of its life. You should have a steady source of water conveniently close to the tree. Without adequate water, the root system of the tree will take longer to develop, which increases the risk of the tree leaning to one side.
Select a spot that gets enough sunlight. Most trees need the full sun to grow and thrive. Partial or full shade could weaken the tree’s structure.
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Whether you are worried about that big tree that is leaning in your front yard, or you just want to get rid of that old stump, you will need to call in the professionals. Hiring a tree service company is not as straightforward as it may seem, and requires a little foresight and planning. Our guide is here to help take a little bit of that burden off your shoulders, featuring tips on how to search for the right tree company and the questions you should ask when you find one.
When it comes to tree care, some jobs are too big and too dangerous, or just need professional expertise to keep the tree healthy.
When to Hire a Tree Removal Company
Did you know that trees can make you feel happier? It’s true. Studies have shown that they can reduce stress and improve mood.
That’s not all; they also clean the air, provide oxygen, prevent soil erosion, and more. Like all living things, however, they can succumb to disease.
For example, fungi can affect the roots, and depending on the severity, it can lead to tree death. In cases like that, you’ll want to get it removed.
Thinking of removing a tree from your yard? Not sure whether or not you should hire a tree removal company?
If so, you’re on the right page. We’ll be going over a few common scenarios where tree removal will be necessary below. Keep reading to learn more!
The Tree Is Dying or Dead
Dead trees usually create problems. Not only do they have a tendency of dropping branches, but they can also fall over, causing property damage.
On top of that, they can attract a variety of pests and vermin. Given that, it’s best to remove them completely. Depending on the situation, you might also want to hire stump grinding services.
The Tree Is Diseased
Not all tree diseases can be treated, especially if they’re caught in the late stages. If that’s the case, it’s better to remove it altogether.
That way, you won’t have to worry about the disease spreading to healthy trees in the area. It’ll also prevent it from becoming an eyesore.
It’s In a Bad Location
Trees in a bad location may have to be removed. For example, those planted too close to a home can cause property damage as they grow.
Similarly, some trees can get in the way of power lines. Not only can it start a fire, but it can also come into contact with the wires, creating a safety hazard for anyone who’s near the tree.
The Tree Is Messy
Some trees can be messy. For example, they can shed needles, seeds, or fruit, all of which can affect your curb appeal. For those who don’t want to deal with the cleanup, you can always remove them.
How Much Do Tree Removal Services Cost?
The price for tree removal depends on various factors such as the height and diameter of the tree. The location of it matters as well. For example, those close to power lines will be more expensive to remove.
On average, however, you can expect to pay between $200 to $1000.
Make sure to ask if any additional services are included in the price such as trimming, pruning, or stump removal.
Hiring a Tree Removal Company
There are several situations that call for tree removal. The last thing that you want is for it to become a safety hazard—that will only endanger you and your family.
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Mushrooms are a common sight in fertile garden soil, healthy landscapes, on outdoor woodpiles, and fallen trees. This may contribute to the misplaced sense of normalcy when you see them growing on tree trunks or root flares.
When you have mushrooms growing in your yard or at the base of your tree it can be worrisome. Mushrooms can be a sign of root rot, heart rot, and overall decay. When these conditions are left untreated it can cause your tree to uproot or snap and come crashing down on your property.
Although not all mushrooms are bad, it’s important to be able to recognize mushrooms that are signs of decay.
Mushrooms & Dying Trees
Mushrooms on a tree are an indication the tree is suffering damage. The tree may be dying, or at least facing serious health issues. Mushrooms are the fruiting body of a fungus, and they often sprout after the fungus has already established itself inside the tree. By the time mushrooms form, the internal structure of the tree is usually already compromised.
Fungal Attacks
Some types of fungi attack tree roots directly, while others enter the tree through a wound. Cuts and scrapes in bark or roots open a tree to fungal attacks. These wounds may have come from a nick by a lawn mower blade, excavations, pruning, or from wind and ice damage. Once the fungus finds a way into the tree’s interior tissue, it produces an enzyme that breaks down wood fibers, releasing nutrients needed to feed the fungus. After mushrooms become visible, the attack is well underway, and the fungus has begun reproducing through spores in or on the mushroom.
Symptoms
Some symptoms of a fungal attack may be easy to miss if you don’t see mushrooms. Dying leaves and limbs, bark discoloration, early fall colors and lesions may resemble symptoms of other diseases. Mushrooms may only last a few days or weeks, depending on the species, so they will not always be present. Mushrooms may appear along the roots, trunk, one or more limbs, or at pruned sites on the tree. If you see mushrooms, it’s an indication of extensive interior damage to roots, branches or the trunk.
Damage
As the fungus eats away at the tree’s tissues, it destroys the entire structure. Root damage could result in trees that topple in a high wind. Branch and trunk damage results in weakened limbs that break off, their falling putting people and property in danger. Some of these issues may arise before mushrooms appear, and they are likely to occur after mushrooms arrive.
What to Do
Once a tree is infected by a fungus and mushrooms appear, there is little, if anything, you can do to save the tree. You may wish to call a certified arborist, a professional trained in diagnosing and recommending treatment for various tree diseases. Occasionally, if the infected limb is removed, you can save the tree, but the more likely scenario is that the tree must be completely removed. The fungus and spores may also live in the soil, proving fatal to other trees or shrubs planted in the same spot. An arborist may suggest methods to expedite the process of removing fungi from soil.
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Trees are a great investment, but there are a wide range of issues involved in selection and care. The resources you will find here provide you with information on choosing the right tree for your landscape, as well as how to care for your trees.
Trees can take up to three years to become fully established. These first three years are the most critical and when we can influence their overall health the most. We have another This guide will cover what happens after planting and the best practices for the first few years.
Green Homes Make Green Planets: A Guide to Tree Care
Did you know that there are more than 60,000 different types of trees in the world? So no matter where you live, it’s possible to grow trees in your yard.
But many people aren’t exactly sure how to take care of their trees. And with so many varieties, it can be tough to know exactly what to do.
That’s why we’ve put together this guide outlining some of the most important parts of tree care. Keep reading to learn more.
Know The Needs of Your Trees
First and foremost, it’s time to do some research. Before taking any action with the trees in your yard, you should spend some time learning about them.
There are a few key points of information you’ll want to know for each tree. First, what type of soil is best for it? And how often and how much should you water it?
Also, look to see if your trees have any sensitivities to certain environmental factors.
It used to be that you’d need to find this information in books. But in today’s digital world, a simple Google search can help you find what you’re looking for.
Water Effectively
Now for one of the most important parts of tree care: watering.
It’s no secret that water is one of the most important parts of taking care of any plant, and trees are no different. However, the specifics of watering will change depending on the tree you’re caring for.
In the heat of summer, your tree needs to be irrigated regularly. This is also true during any other drought season you have throughout the year. If you don’t water them in these dry periods, they will die.
Usually the best method for watering trees is infrequent deep watering. Instead of light watering every day, trees prefer a lot of water every once in a while.
Also, note that new trees are going to need more water than older trees. Mature trees are generally quite hearty and can withstand tougher conditions than younger ones.
It’s Pruning Time
Next, let’s cover another key part of tree care: pruning.
Every year in late winter or early spring, you should dedicate time to prune your trees before they begin growing new branches.
This process gets rid of excess growth and allows your tree to focus all its nutrients on growing high-quality new branches. It’s often a little overwhelming to prune a whole tree if you’ve never done it before.
But if you have a little experience or are feeling brave, here are some pruning tips to follow.
First, look for dead and broken branches. These are an invitation for moisture and organisms that can begin to rot your tree.
Also, look for any branches that cross. When this happens, it’s normal for a wound to form in the place where the branches rub against one another. To avoid this, get rid of the smaller branch.
Another common pruning strategy is to cut off low branches. This will allow more light to get to the space below your tree and can help your tree grow taller season after season.
Protect the Roots
If there’s something wrong with the roots of a tree, the whole tree will be affected. To ensure healthy roots, start by working on the soil.
It’s essential that your soil has proper levels of oxygen. This allows the roots to effectively absorb nutrients.
If your soil is too densely compacted, there won’t be enough space for air. And without air space, say goodbye to healthy oxygen levels.
When working on your root soil, focus on the critical root zone (CRZ). This is the area right around the tree where the core of the roots are. You should be very careful not to disturb the CRZ in terms of compacting or changing the grade of the soil there.
Recognize Tree Diseases
Last but not least, in order to properly care for your trees, you should be able to recognize common tree diseases.
The truth is that besides watering, you probably won’t have to actively care for many of your trees. But you should keep an eye out for diseases.
Look for any abnormal changes. This could be stunted growth or a fast change in color.
One of the best ways to keep an eye out for tree diseases is to regularly assess your trees. Simply keep an eye on them so you know what they look like, how they feel, and how they are growing.
This way, you’ll be able to notice changes soon after they happen. And just like in people, the best way to mitigate damage from a tree disease is to catch it early.
There are also lots of online tools available that can help you recognize the common signs of disease for your specific tree species.
The Tree Care Tips You Need
There you have it—our top tree care tips to make sure your trees are healthy and strong. Now that you’ve read through these ideas, it’s time to put them into place.
Start by researching the types of trees you have on your property so you can properly take care of them. And then get started watering, pruning, and caring. Soon you’ll enjoy a healthy, vibrant yard with beautiful trees.
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Though trees certainly add natural beauty to any outdoor space, there are a variety of practical advantages to having an appealing wooded property. Planting trees in your yard is a long-term investment that can improve your local ecosystem and your community’s air quality, and help regulate global pollution levels. Read on to learn more about the positive effects that trees have on your health, budget, and property value.
5 Clever Reasons to Plant a Tree on Your Property
Though Earth Day and Arbor Day are good reminders about how important trees are to the environment, any day is a good day to plant a sapling on your property. Trees can help improve your health, increase property value, lower energy costs, and more.
Though trees certainly add natural beauty to any outdoor space, there are a variety of practical advantages to having an appealing wooded property. Planting trees in your yard is a long-term investment that can improve your local ecosystem and your community’s air quality, and help regulate global pollution levels. Read on to learn more about the positive effects that trees have on your health, budget, and property value.
Increased Property Value
Landscaping undoubtedly increases a home’s curb appeal, but it turns out that trees can also significantly affect a home’s value. According to the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), healthy, mature trees add 10 percent to your property’s value.
Energy Savings
Planting trees can result in major utility savings in the long run. According to the Arbor Day Foundation, mature trees’ cooling effect can reduce air conditioning consumption by 30 percent. Depending on your climate, trees can be used to maximize shade, deflect cold winds, channel breezes, or magnify the sun’s warming effects. The United States Department of Energy estimates that three strategically placed trees can save a household between $100 and $250 per year in energy costs.
Improved Air Quality
Trees reduce pollution and even remove fossil fuel emissions from the atmosphere. In fact, trees reduced 17.4 million tonnes (about 19.2 million U.S. tons) of air pollution in the United States in 2010. While fossil fuel emissions reduction is important on national and global scales, it can also directly impact your home’s air quality. A 2013 study from the University of Lancaster in the United Kingdom showed that roadside trees reduced air pollution in nearby buildings by more than 50 percent.
Better Mental Health
Not only do trees positively affect our physical health, they can also improve our mental health. A large-scale Australian study found that residents of areas with at least a 30 percent tree canopy had a 31 percent lower risk of psychological distress than those living in areas with fewer trees. A study from Chungbuk National University in South Korea revealed that office workers who could see trees from their windows reported lower stress levels and higher job satisfaction levels.
Sustained Wildlife
Trees act as habitats for birds, squirrels, and other wildlife, simultaneously providing both food and shelter. Plant evergreen trees to create a year-round habitat for your local wildlife. Many trees attract pollinators, like bees, which in turn helps global ecosystems. Plant maples, fruit trees, linden, and hawthorn trees to help sustain the global bee population.
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Yellowing leaves can be caused by a number of factors, and typically signal that your plant is in some kind of distress. Unfortunately, there are dozens of potential causes of this one problematic symptom, and narrowing it down can be challenging.
When a tree’s leaves turn yellow or drop off in summer, it could be due to a number of causes. Sometimes, it’s perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. But, in many cases, summer leaf yellowing is caused by insects or diseases, environmental factors, or things you’ve done (or not done!) to your tree, all of which can result in dieback and failure to thrive.
My Tree Leaves Are Turning Yellow
Yellowing of tree leaves may occur for several reasons.
When a tree’s leaves turn yellow, it’s often an early indication of a pest problem or disease associated with fungi or bacteria. However, it may also be the result of a vitamin or mineral deficiency. Address color changes as soon as possible. Treating for pests or providing additional nutrients may be the answer in restoring the tree’s health.
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is an abiotic illness commonly found in several areas of the United States. Unlike other problems, it is not caused by a disease or pest. The yellow leaves are the result of low chlorophyll production. Chlorophyll is what gives the green color to leaves and allows the use of sunlight for food and energy production. The most common cause for this is iron deficiency, usually treated by adding iron supplements to the soil. This problem may also be caused by overwatering, root damage or damage caused at the trunk. Early on, leaves will turn a yellow-green color, and become more yellow as the illness progresses. If left untreated, veins and leaf edges may turn brown and die. Once this stage occurs, tree growth usually stops and branches begin to die.
Mineral Deficiency
Most types of trees require at least 16 elements to function properly. Among these are iron, nitrogen and magnesium, and to a lesser extent manganese and boron. If these elements are not available in large-enough quantities naturally, add them for the well-being of the tree. If left unchecked, the leaves become brittle and turn yellow, the fruit dies, along with the branches. Slight differences are noticeable in the yellowing pattern and change depending on which element is lacking. Nitrogen-poor leaves develop a mottled pattern, versus yellowing bases of leaves with a magnesium deficiency. Each of these problems is easily treated by adding supplements to the soil.
Aphids
Aphids are common garden pests and may affect just about every tree species and region in the country. These insects tend to do the most damage to young, newly planted trees; handle these pests quickly. One of the earliest signs of an aphid problem is a yellowing and curling of leaves. Once this occurs, a good dose of pesticides can get rid of the bugs. Since they tend to be persistent, more than one round may be necessary. Some growers plan ahead by introducing lady bugs to their new trees. These insects are beneficial to the tree since they are natural predators of aphids.
Citrus Greening
Usually carried by the Asian citrus psyllid, citrus greening is a contagious disease that most often severely damages young citrus trees. This pest is a big problem across most of the southern United States, including parts of Texas, California and Florida, where a large number of citrus is grown. In the early stages of infection, leaves yellow and dry out. These effects move toward the major parts of the tree, including fruit and branches. Fruit becomes misshapen and bitter, and production stunted. If left untreated, the core of the tree will curve, with irreparable effects.
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Any tree can be a fast growing tree. All you have to do is follow some important steps from the very beginning and you can make any type of tree grow at an incredible rate.
Everyone wants to know what can make trees grow faster so their landscape can be the influence of the neighborhood. While an instant growth serum hasn’t been made yet, we can take a look at things you can do at home to help those trees grow at their maximum yearly capacity. As a bonus, we’ll also look at a couple of trees that are known for growing fast in general.
How to Make Trees Grow Faster
Make Trees Grow Faster
Moving into a new home and beginning to landscape your yard can be a very exciting time. Many people purchase small trees at very cheap prices in hopes of someday having a large shade tree or foliage to block unsightly views. Trees generally take a long time to grow large enough to accomplish this however. So how do you get your newly purchased tree to grow large quickly? Follow the below steps and you will see noticeable growth each year as a faster than typical growth rate.
Step 1
In order to jump start the growth of your tree, you will need to focus on root feeding. Spraying water from a hose on top of the tree root ball or wood chips covering the root ball is very inefficient and wasteful of water. The reason for this is that not much of the water penetrates the soil deep enough to thoroughly soak and feed the roots. Instead, you should attempt to direct the water directly to the roots.
Step 2
There are a few different methods you can utilize to target your watering directly onto the roots. The first method is to cut a 1 inch PVC pipe roughly 2 – 3 feet long. Then pound the PVC pipe into the ground directly under the foliage (not too close to the tree trunk). Leave about 1 – 2 inches of PVC pipe exposed above ground. When you water the tree, fill the PVC pipe with water, and the water will go directly to the roots of the tree.
Step 3
Another method is to use a drip line around the tree. This produces a slow trickling of water that will penetrate the soil better than sprayers or directly from the hose. By reducing the water flow, the soil has enough time to absorb the drip water in turn directing the water right to the roots. This also eliminate unnecessary runoff from hose spraying trees. The trick to drip feeding is that you have to leave the drip feeders on for a long period of time per watering. Generally 30 minutes or longer is best for trees in order to water the roots enough.
Step 4
The third method to directing water down to the roots is through a root irrigation stake. These stakes attach directly to your hose, and you stick them deep into the soil. Turn on the water, and the water sprays out the end of the stake underneath the ground.
Step 5
Lastly, you will want to select a high potent fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro, or if you prefer organic fertilizers, try various types of Seaweed extract. Direct all fertilization either through the PVC pipe, through the drip irrigation system, or into the irrigation stake. This will ensure the fertilizer goes directly to the roots. By doing this, you avoid fertilizing the soil between the ground and roots, and instead focus directly on the roots. Fertilize your tree roots every 1 – 2 months, and you will see larger leaves and a much quicker than typical growth rate.
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You might have already chosen one of the best trees for small gardens and planted it in a position you think is perfect, but then realize a year or two down the line that it has outgrown its spot or simply never looked right there in the first place. Luckily trees can easily be relocated if you do it at the right time of year. Young trees relocate better than more established ones though, which are trickier to move, especially if they’ve been in the spot for more than five years.
How to Relocate a Tree
Trees grow poorly when located too close to buildings or in areas that don’t provide the sunlight and soil requirements for the type of tree. You can relocate a tree to a more suitable environment, but you must take special care to reduce the amount of shock to the tree so the tree can recover easily from relocation. For well-established trees planted in the same spot for over three years, this requires a three-year root pruning process. Younger trees don’t require a long recovery time before transplanting. Contact a tree removal service for moving large trees.
Preparation
Measure the tree trunk diameter and multiply this figure by nine to determine the distance away from the trunk to prune the roots. For example, a 2-inch diameter tree trunk requires a circle 18 inches away from the trunk or 36 inches in diameter. You can lay a garden hose on the ground to form the circle, then transfer the circle to the ground with landscaping spray paint.
Cut one-fourth of the circle on two opposite sides of the tree with a spade, cutting 12 to 18 inches deep to sever the long roots. Make these cuts during the dormant period two years before moving the tree. For younger trees, you can cut the entire circumference of the circle at once only a few months before you move the tree. Severing the long roots promotes the growth of smaller roots that hold the soil ball intact.
Cut the remaining two quarters of the circle around the tree during the dormant period in the second year. Allow another full year for the tree to recover and develop new shorter roots before actually moving the tree. Disregard this step for young trees because the young trees don’t require a two-stage cutting and recovery process.
Water the tree deeply the day before you move the tree.
Cut a circle around the tree about 6 inches out from the root pruning circle and to a depth of about 18 inches on the day you transplant the tree. Although you have already cut around the tree to prune the roots several months or a year before relocating, you must cut around the tree to sever any new, long roots and free the tree from the soil.
Push the spade or a shovel under the tree’s soil ball and gently rock the tree to break the bottom roots away from the soil. Reposition your shovel on the opposite side of the tree and repeat, then continue around the tree until the soil ball seems loose.
Cut any roots on the bottom of the soil ball with a pair of bypass pruners or lopping shears, if applicable. This step might not be required if the roots break away naturally when you insert the shovel or spade under the soil ball.
Removal and Planting
Dig a hole two to three times the diameter and just as deep as the soil ball. Choose a location that provides the sunlight and soil needs for the tree species and that is located at least 20 feet away from your house or other buildings. Trees that grow very large require additional distance away from buildings. If the tree requires fertile soil with good drainage, you can incorporate organic matter, such as compost and leaf mold, to improve the soil.
Lift one side of the soil ball with the spade or shovel and slide a piece of burlap under the soil ball. You might have to lift the soil ball on several sides to work the burlap under the entire soil ball. If desired, tie the branches up with twine to make the tree easier to handle.
Lift the tree out of the hole and into a wheelbarrow or garden cart, if desired. Do not lift the tree by the trunk. Instead, use the burlap to help lift the tree and keep the soil ball intact around the roots. This task might require several people, depending on the size of the tree.
Gather up the burlap ends around the soil ball and secure by tying soft twine around the trunk.
. Move the tree to the new planting location. A wheelbarrow or garden cart makes this task much easier, or you can enlist help and carry it to the new location.
Set the tree gently in the planting hole and untie the burlap. You can remove the entire piece of burlap carefully without disturbing the soil ball or unwrap the burlap from around the top of the soil ball and leave the burlap in the hole to decompose on its own.
Fill in the hole with a mixture of garden soil amended with finished compost, sphagnum peat and coarse sand to improve soil fertility and drainage. You must plant the tree to the original planting depth for the best success.
Water and fertilize the tree at the same time, using a water-soluble fertilizer added to the water supply. Add more soil as needed if the soil settles when you water the tree.
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You’ve invested time and money in your landscape but landscapes evolve and mature over the years. At some point, you may need to make changes. These changes could include moving established trees.
Transplanting a small tree (sapling) is a little more involved than simply buying a container-grown tree and setting it out—a few extra considerations come into play. Nevertheless, the basic principles of preparation and care are the same. With a bit of effort and determination, your young tree will be healthy and growing in no time.
HOW TO TRANSPLANT A TREE: WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO
Trees root into the earth, but that doesn’t mean they are impossible to remove from the ground and transport to a new home.
You love your trees, but sometimes they’re better suited for locations elsewhere. Perhaps they’ve outgrown the space in which they’re rooted, or, maybe you plan to move somewhere new but wish to bring that special tree along with you.
GUIDELINES FOR SAFE & PROPER TRANSPLANTING OF TREES
Regardless of the tree you’re moving and space to which you plant transport it, there are several guidelines to follow for the safe and proper transplanting of trees:
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO TRANSPLANT A TREE?
There are good and not-so-ideal times of the year to transplant trees. “The best time to transplant a tree is when it’s dormant and the ground conditions are ‘just right,’” says Rick Hanshaw, manager of the Davey Nursery in Wooster, Ohio. Find the best months of year to transplant your tree, including your pine, oak, maple or fruit tree.
WHAT SHOULD I CONSIDER WHEN PICKING A NEW HOME FOR A TREE?
Ideal transplanting locations depend on the size and species of the tree you transplant. According to Hanshaw, trees prefer different levels of shade and sun, as well as varying soil drainage conditions. The potential height and size of the tree and the location of home foundations, power lines and underground utilities all affect the transplanting location. “You need to identify the tree species first,” Hanshaw says. “There are a lot of different variables involved with choosing the correct location to which to transplant a tree.”
TRANSPLANTING MATURE TREES VS. YOUNG TREES
There isn’t a big difference between transplanting mature trees vs. young trees. The vigorous growth rate and easily manageable root ball of a young tree make its transplanting process fairly easy. However, all trees experience some degree of shock after being transplanted—the length of recovery time simply depends on the quality of aftercare. “Mature trees will just take more aftercare than younger trees after being transplanted,” Hanshaw says.
CAN ALL TREES BE TRANSPLANTED?
Some tree species react better to transplanting than others. According to Hanshaw, red maples, elms, and bald cypress generally respond better to being transplanted than other species, in northern regions, in particular. “Specifically red maples have much more fibrous root systems of which you can capture more when digging,” Hanshaw explains.
Most trees will move well, assuming proper time is allotted to correctly fertilize, root prune, dig the properly sized root ball and water before and after transplanting. It is equally important to continue a pest management/fertilization program after transplanting, as the tree can have a 1- to 2-year root transition growth before becoming reestablished.
The only conditions for which we do not recommend relocating a tree include:
The tree is in a state of stress/deterioration that would warrant a removal
The new location is unsuitable for the specified tree.
SET YOURSELF UP FOR SUCCESSFUL REPLANTING
Ensure the time and budget required to transplant a tree in a careful, timely manner is available.
Your tree will lose a significant amount of its root system during transplanting. Make sure it’s well-hydrated before the transplanting process begins.
Once the tree is uprooted, tie up the crown as much as possible to reduce limb breakage during the move.
Wrap the tree in a tarp to reduce wind damage and moisture loss.
Water the tree as soon as possible after transplanting. This is the most important.
Follow up with proper tree care and inspections for insect damage.
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A tree survey is carried out by a trained arborist and provides a detailed report about the condition of trees in a property. Within the report, the expert indicates the scientific name, as well as whether a tree should be removed or not – if it is deemed that a tree should be removed, the reasons are stated. In some places within the AU, a tree survey is mandatory, while, in others, landowners ask for them whenever they want to make informed decisions on which trees to keep and which to remove.
The Importance of a Tree Survey
As we know the trees are the integral part of our flora and fauna hence it’s important to have tree surveys done; there are many reasons why tree surveys are important for example if you are planning to buy property which is covered by trees and it’s a natural habitat for many of the species.
For example, there is a possibility that the property you are buying is habitat for endangered species like bats. So it is important to have trees surveys done to check whether the trees on property you are about to buy is likely to have any negative impact on the property such as subsidence.
Similarly if you like to develop land on which there are many trees, surveys can provide valuable information on condition of trees and whether there is any health and safety risk because of tress and animals.
It’s not necessary that only those who are looking for property and planning to develop their land should do tree surveys, a curious individual who has a nice grown tree in his garden can also conduct tree survey to gather information about the age of that tree, type of the tree and some information about species residing on that tree to take proper care of his tree and to understand health and safety risks because of the species residing on his tree.
Many of the enthusiast people conduct tree surveys in their garden to take proper care of their tree and to save precious life depending on their trees.
For town planners and land developers tree surveys are conducted to ensure that trees within their boundaries meet all safety and health requirements. Trees are a very important part of any ecosystem but they can occasionally be a risk to human and animal life so tree surveys can provide information to avoid potential hazards to life because of trees.
Tree surveys conducted by a professional arboricultural and ecological consultant like Arbtech Arboriculturist are meant to provide important and useful information to local authorities, householders, designers and environmental lovers for various reasons.
Very first step to save trees and precious animal life dependent on trees starts from our home!
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Windstorms, hail, or heavy rain can bring a tree or branches down on your house or car. Vehicles run into trees. Hidden decay or a lightning strike can cause a tree to split in two. When you need emergency tree service, you want some fast, reliable, and trained in handling delicate emergencies.
Why Hire an Arborist?
Healthy trees serve many purposes in your local community. A way for homeowners to ensure their trees stay healthy is by hiring an arborist. Professional, trained arborists know how to properly maintain trees for the safety of the public and the health of the tree.
Trees are an investment that require proper tree care; however, pruning or removing trees, especially large trees, can be dangerous work. Tree work should be done only by those trained and equipped to work safely in trees.
What is a Certified Arborist?
An ISA arborist certification is a nongovernmental, voluntary process by which individuals can document their base of knowledge. Certification provides a measurable assessment of an individual’s knowledge in the competencies needed for proper tree care.
When a professional becomes an ISA Certified Arborist®, they should be recognized by their peers and the public as a tree care professional who has attained a generally-accepted level of knowledge in areas such as tree biology, diagnosis, maintenance practices, safety, and other subject and practice areas within the tree care profession as identified through periodic job task analyses.
They must also continue their education to maintain their certification. Therefore, they are more likely to be up to date on the latest techniques in arboriculture.
Services an Arborist can Provide
Arborist can help homeowners maintain their investment by:
Pruning
Pruning can be necessary for various reasons including, improvement of health, appearance and safety. An arborist can determine what type of pruning is necessary.
Tree removal
Tree removal can be expensive. Consider hiring an arborist when your tree is dead or dying, an unacceptable risk, causing an obstruction, crowding other trees, or located in an area where there’s new construction.
Emergency tree care
Removing or pruning storm-damaged trees can be dangerous, but a professional arborist can perform the job safely while reducing further risk of damage to people and property.
Planting
Getting your new tree off to a healthy start will help the tree mature to its full size and ensures it will provide environmental, economic, and social benefits throughout its lifetime. Some arborists plant trees, and most recommend species that are appropriate for certain locations.
Other services
Plant health care or preventive maintenance.
Cabling and bracing for added support to branches with weak attachments.
Soil aeration to improve root growth
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Since the life has discovered on Earth, trees have furnished us with two of life’s essentials, oxygen, and food. They also provide other necessities such as medicine, shelter, and tools. Today, their value continue to increase.
Summer, spring, winter or fall! Every season brings a change to your yard and with each season the trees and shrubs change their growth and shape.
Tree trimming and pruning encourages air circulation that reduces disease extent and the possibility of damage from high winds. Tree trimming also removes an unhealthy or dangerous branch that can easily fail in severe weather and allows more sunlight to reach your brake plants. Whether you need tree pruning, tree trimming, or tree removal, you must hire an experienced professional to help you deal with the trees, stumps and shrubs in and around your yard.
Love Your Trees? Choose Your Arborist Wisely.
Along with owning a home comes a long list of upkeep duties. If you have trees on your property, caring for those trees is going to be an important task on that list. We know – you’re busy and you have a lot of “to-dos” already, and proper tree care might not seem like a high priority. We’re definitely not trying to make your life harder! But good looking, healthy trees can add a lot of $$$ to your property value and boost your curb appeal. Not to mention, trees improve our air quality, reduce your utility bills, help create privacy and make outdoor activities bearable in summer. On the other other hand, unhealthy, structurally unsound trees can pose a big threat to your property and your family.
Luckily, there are skilled professionals whose job it is to take the worry out of your tree care and cross it off your to-do list. Yet, hiring the right tree company can be a daunting task. Unfortunately, there are many companies operating in the area that present themselves as experienced tree care companies, but who have little to no experience, or skill, to do the job right. With all the cards for tree services left on your doorstep, how do you choose the right person for the job?
If a random guy in a truck with a chainsaw knocks on your door offering to “trim your trees”, just back away and close the door!
Just as you would research a doctor to care for you, your family or even a pet, researching your tree care provider is advisable. Hire with confidence by learning how to recognize quality tree care companies.
A qualified professional tree care company will not solicit your business by taping a business card to your door or mailbox.
They will not demand payment prior to starting work or sell you on a job without a written estimate or work order to be seen and signed by you.
They have the equipment to do the job right. A ladder does not constitute the right equipment!
What to look for in a tree care partner:
The company is staffed with experienced and certified professionals. Preferably, the company will employ certified arborists who have degrees in arboriculture, urban forestry, biology, botany or a related green industry field. In addition to degrees and certifications, arborists should have a good number of years of experience under their belts.
Check to be sure the company you are researching is insured. Finding out a company is not properly insured after they’ve damaged your property is never a good surprise. Properly trained crews will pay attention to your gutters, fences, flower beds and garden art to be sure none are damaged while pruning or removing a tree. Don’t be afraid to ask to see current certificates of liability and workers’ compensation insurance, if applicable.
Take a look at their website. A quality tree care company is going to be just as invested in your knowledge and education about trees as they are in providing you good tree care services. The more you know about trees, the better the partnership you’ll have. Look for detailed information about who the company is, their philosophy, their staff, service specifics and content, to help you make better tree care choices. Be sure you can identify the company’s professional accreditation, certifications and insurance statement.
Don’t be afraid to ask for references to verify quality of service and work. Before starting the job, ask for a signed proposal or work order that provides details about what work will be performed on your property. If there are additional services that come up from unforeseen problems, they should be discussed with you before additional work is performed.
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Cutting down a mature tree isn’t as easy as just stroking away at it with an axe. There are particular techniques that need to be followed to preserve the wood and ensure the safety of the people cutting down the tree. To know how a tree will fall, the cutter will need to determine the right kind of cut to use.
Before you begin to study the correct tree trimming method, you need to make sure you have the right tools for the job. The equipment you use should be of good quality and must be tested before utilizing it on a tree. The following list covers the main pieces of equipment that would be needed to cut down a mature tree on your property.
Take Down a Tree
TheRight Wayto Fell a Tree with a Chainsaw.
Trees are an important part of the ecosystem but sometimes they need to be removed to prevent damage to surrounding areas. When it comes to felling a tree, the task is as much art as it is science. To exercise the proper amount of control to achieve the desired results without risking safety, the experts at Husqvarna offer the following basics on felling a tree.
Note that it is impossible to address all scenarios, circumstances and contingencies that can and will occur when felling, so this article is intended to give an understanding of basic principles.
Safety & Preparation
Before firing up the chainsaw, you must have a plan in place. The very first step is to read (or reread) the chainsaw’s Operator Manual and follow all instructions, precautions and warnings prior to using the saw. It is imperative to know the answer to the question “what needs to be done if an emergency occurs’’ and develop a plan for specific situations. This will help identify potential hazards beforehand and create an organized response if an emergency occurs.
An on-site first aid kit, cell phone programmed to the nearest emergency care facility, directions and distance to that facility and local utility contact numbers are a few basic components to a good emergency plan. And, whether in the back yard or the back 40, never work alone.
While it is mandatory for professionals, anyone using a chainsaw should include personal protective equipment (PPE) as part of their plan. A properly outfitted operator wears protective chaps or pants, eye and ear protection, appropriate footwear, work gloves and a helmet with visor. The proper equipment cannot eliminate the risk of injury completely but it can reduce the severity of an injury should an accident occur.
Before pulling the cord, it is important that users visually inspect the saw for any damage or leaks. Only use a chainsaw that’s been well maintained and is in proper working order. The chain’s cutting teeth need to be properly sharpened, and make sure the depth-gauge setting is correct.
When using a chainsaw, understand the three reactive forces of the saw—push, pull and kickback. Try to avoid kickback, which occurs when the tip of the bar contacts an object or gets pinched during operation. The reactive force causes the bar to “kick” back towards the operator, which can cause injury.
Saw Operation
When using a chainsaw, understanding the three reactive forces of the saw—push, pull and kickback—will help prevent accidents.
Never cut with the upper half of the tip of the bar. Kickback occurs when the tip of the bar comes in contact with an object or gets pinched during operation, causing the bar to “kick” up and back towards the operator, which can result in a loss of control and possible injury.
That is why balance and stance are important to safe operation. The boxer’s stance, left foot slightly forward and both knees bent, is recommended to help maintain control of the saw and minimize fatigue when reactive forces are experienced.
Before cutting, establish a plan for the direction of the tree to fall as well as a path for your escape route. When surveying the surrounding area, identify potential hazards on the ground, in the tree and where the tree will fall.
Felling Techniques
Directional felling is the process of putting a tree in a preferred area and not necessarily where it wants to go. A “felling hinge” is the hallmark of directional felling. It is safe, efficient and steers the tree as it falls to the ground.
When surveying the tree and surrounding area, identify potential hazards on the ground, in the tree and where the tree will fall. Clear leaves, limbs and live saplings or anything that will impede a clean and controlled cut or complicate the escape route. Look for dead limbs and hanging branches that could possibly fall when cutting or as the tree falls. Also, examine the path and area where the tree will fall for hazards such as potential hang-ups or stumps.
It is exceptionally rare to find a tree that does not lean.
To determine the lean of a tree, stand back 25 to 50’ and frame the entire canopy with your hands. Imagine a plumb line running from the center of the frame down to the base of the tree. The distance left or right of center will determine the amount of weighted side lean.
The side lean will show which side is the “good” side and the “bad” side. The side the tree leans toward is considered the bad side of the tree. The lean will also help determine aim when placing the tree. If a tree leans three feet to the right, it is necessary to aim three feet to the left, to have the tree fall in the right location.
Trees with severe lean can be dangerous to fell because the tree can move in the leaning direction too quickly, splitting at the base and creating what is known as a “barber chair” break in the tree. In such a case, the split wood can fly upwards, striking the operator with terrific force.
The next step is to map out the escape route. This is always opposite the direction the tree will be falling and should be at a 45-degree angle from the tree. Remove any obstacles and make note of any potential hazards such as holes or tree stumps. When the tree begins its descent, don’t run or turn your back on it.
To determine the lean of a tree, stand back 25 to 50’ and frame the entire canopy with your hands. Imagine a plumb line running from the center of the frame down to the base of the tree trunk. The distance left or right of center will determine the amount of weighted side lean.
Sounds like a lot of work? Abraham Lincoln is credited with saying, “Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.” Preparation is central to success.
Next, the hinge will need to be determined. The hinge helps dictate how and where the tree will fall. Most industry experts will use a simple formula to calculate both the hinge length and thickness. To determine thickness, it is recommended to use 10% of the diameter of the tree at D.B.H (diameter at breast height) or 4-1/2 ft. from the ground.
A tree with a 20-in. diameter will have a 2-in. thick hinge. Hinge thickness is reduced for thicker trees and drier wood fiber.
The length is 80 percent of the tree’s diameter at D.B.H. So, for a 20-in. diameter tree, the hinge length is 16 in.
The hinge of the open face notch helps dictate how and where the tree will fall. To determine thickness, use 10 percent of the diameter of the tree at D.B.H (diameter at breast height) or 4-1/2’ from the ground. A tree with a 20” diameter will have a 2” thick hinge.
Historically, the 45-degree face notch dominated the industry, flat on the bottom and cutting at a 45-degree angle downward to create the opening. While this will bring the tree down, there is more risk with the reduced amount of control in placing the tree. The tree can only fall 45-degrees before the notch closes and the hinge breaks.
Today, most people recommend using an open-face notch, which is a 70-degree opening. This gives the cutter more control since the hinge will not be broken until the tree is almost to the ground. The open-face notch allows the back cut to be made level with the notch, whereas the 45-degree notch will need to be back-cut above the apex of the hinge.
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