What Is the Difference Between Tree Trimming and Pruning?

Written by Travis Van Slooten and published on http://www.articlesfactory.com/

Do you have curb appeal?

If not, one of the best ways to get it is to keep your yard looking its best. Taking care of the yard often involves trimming and pruning trees. Trimming and pruning your trees will ensure that they look their best at all times and continue to be healthy. Healthy trees not only look great but they provide good shade. If you have questions about the difference between trimming and pruning, here is a closer look at what you need to know.

Tree Trimming and Tree Pruning: How Do They Differ?

To stay healthy and look attractive, trees need regular tree maintenance like tree trimming and tree pruning. What is the difference between these two? Read on to find out which procedure your tree is most in need of.

Mature and growing trees abound in almost every neighborhood across the country. If the proper tree care procedures are not regularly observed by homeowners, trees could cause serious injury to their property and the trees themselves could end up in poor form and health. Most of these trees may need some tree trimming and some may require serious tree pruning. But what really is the difference between these two?

Many homeowners, even some tree services contractors just use these two terms interchangeably. Strictly speaking however, tree trimming and tree pruning are actually different, albeit closely related, processes.

You may think of tree trimming as tree “grooming” or shaping it according to a design you have in mind. You are more focused on the outer perimeter of the tree, removing most of the new growth of leaves or small branches on the tree’s external portion. Tree pruning on the other hand, is thinning out a tree to remove diseased limbs and dead branches. It usually involves cutting off of selected branches back to the new growth, to the larger branch, or to the main trunk itself.

Simply put, tree trimming is more of a procedure done for aesthetic purposes, while tree pruning is done primarily for safety and health purposes. Pruning for safety reasons is when you cut off branches that could fall on a person or on a part of your home or property. Pruning a tree to maintain its health typically includes removing insect-infested or decayed branches and thinning out the crown for better air passage. You can also prune a tree to promote fruit production in fruit-bearing trees, and stimulate blooming in flowering trees.

The ultimate decision on whether a tree needs trimming or pruning would be dependent on the type of tree you have and the problems you may have with it. For more tree care tips, consult with a tree trimming or pruning contractor.

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Tree Trimming: Why It Matters for Safety & How We Can Help

Written by Antoinette Ayana and published on http://www.articlesfactory.com/

Tree trimming is the largest component of maintaining both an aesthetically pleasing and safe environment at your facility. Proper tree care starts with pruning.

Trimming refers to the removal of tree branches, buds or roots as needed to maintain the tree’s optimal health and the safety of people and buildings around them.

Our team of certified arborists can create a custom maintenance plan for you depending on your trees’ and location’s unique needs. We are also Certified Utility Arborists, familiar with all methods of maintaining safety around power lines for any size job.

Tree Trimming: Why It Matters

Perhaps you have grown tired of tree trimming or you simply don’t feel like doing it anymore. If you are thinking about giving up on keeping your foliage pruned, here are some reasons to reconsider.

If you own your home, chances are you’ve hired someone to do tree trimming or have gone outside with some shears or a chainsaw to do it yourself at least a time or two. Perhaps, though, you’ve grown tired of the expense or you simply don’t feel like doing it anymore. After all, trees should know where and how to grow! What gives you the right to trim back nature’s beauty? It isn’t hurting anything, right? Well, unfortunately, this isn’t quite the case. If you are thinking about giving up on keeping your foliage pruned, here are some reasons to reconsider.

Fire Hazard

Untrimmed trees can gather a great deal of dead wood up in the branches. Nothing burns faster than this old wood, and it could lead to a major disaster should your yard be subject to a fire. A lightning strike, arson, or any number of other incidents could lead to a blaze. Tree trimming may not prevent the foliage itself from being damaged, but it can certainly help to prevent the blaze from spreading across the yard and into your house.

Sunlight

Are you starting to feel as though your yard doesn’t get any sunlight? It could be time for a tree trimming. Granted, some people enjoy the Savannah-esque feeling of having their yards and homes enveloped in shadow. But if you are the type of person who would like to see the sunshine once in a while, pruning back those branches can let the light back onto your yard.

Weight

If you’ve ever had a big branch drop unceremoniously onto your car, you may know that it can be an expensive incident from which to recover. If the branch in question comes from your own property, you may have a difficult time getting compensation from your insurance company. This is to say nothing of how such an incident would affect someone who had a branch drop on their heads. It is not an overstatement to say that it could result in serious injury or death. Make your property a safe place for people and possessions.

While all of these are important reasons to engage in tree trimming, the truth is that the main reason is for simple aesthetic purposes. Most people would agree that a yard looks best when it is well maintained and cared for. Pruning back branches is a part of that. For best results, get in touch with a landscape company who specializes in pruning trees. You’ll find that, with the right touch, you’ll be pleased with the results.

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Effective Benefits Of Tree Lopping Services

Written by Jasper Boekelman and published on http://www.articlesfactory.com/

Owners of residential properties may have good reasons for resorting to tree lopping. These are generally for outdoor decoration, safety, and health issues. Although trees can make your home look more attractive, there are instances when you need to trim branches or remove the tree completely.

Lopping service providers will remove unhealthy, shattered or dead boughs that have grown in young and old trees. It prevents micro-organisms that can infect other healthy parts of these large perennial plants. At the same time, the amputation of live limbs facilitates exposure to natural light and free flow of air within the top. Pruning is also meant to enhance the beauty of your topography.

Why Tree Lopping Is So Important?

Tree lopping is crucial to ensure that trees at your home and property remain in an excellent condition. There are numerous benefits of tree trimming, tree pruning, and tree lopping. Apart from the aesthetic benefits, tree maintenance also helps to keep the trees’ health in good condition.

People who own private properties in the North Shore may have authentic reasons for choosing a tree lopping service. These are by and large used for open air decorations, safety & security and health related issues. In spite of the fact that trees can make your home look more appealing, there are some circumstances when you have to trim branches or expel the tree totally.

Lopping specialist and arborists will evacuate undesirable, smashed or dead branches that have developed in young and old trees as well. It stops the growth of microorganisms that can infect other strong parts of these huge long-lasting plants. In the meantime, removal of live branches encourages exposure to natural light and free stream of air inside the top. Trimming and pruning is additionally intended to improve the excellence of your private property.

• There are basically two choices for tree lopping. First, is to trim the branches on your own, if you have any sort of knowledge in this field.
• Second option is to hire a professional and expert tree lopper. There are advantages and disadvantages of both. It is fundamental to assess every option deliberately before settling on one of these two options.
• It truly does not make a difference for whatever length of time that the tree is pruned appropriately. High standard pruning systems likewise guarantee the security of passers-by, neighbours, pets, vehicles, and any other type of physical structures.

Well-built branch structures can be obtained by trimming young and medium-sized trees on trees. Many property owners protect trees essentially for natural purposes.

• It is additionally important to cut trees for landscaping, beautification, and to increase the value of your home.
• The development of trees is improved on the grounds that unfit branches are expelled.
• Suitable pruning is vital in making the trees’ foundations stronger and the shape more alluring.

Mostly, trees should not be allowed to grow too high if they are located in a residential area. Full developed trees are trimmed and pruned for aesthetic reasons and to limit the growth. Twigs in the lower area are chopped down to encourage mechanical collecting strategies.

• While trees are known to give shade, particularly amid hot summer, low undergrowth ought to be pruned for safety & security reasons.
• Branches shouldn’t hinder electric cables it can pose a big threat to people living around that area.
• Falling leaves and twigs can likewise do harm the roof and gutters of your home.

Professional tree lopping North Shore based services have the skills and experience to take part in all types of works related to tree maintenance.

Additionally, specialists have the right ladders, rope, pruning shears and other equipment required to perform the trimming, pruning, and lopping work.

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Keep Your Trees Healthy: Why Regular Tree Trimming is Important

Written by Andrew J and published on http://www.articlesfactory.com/

Trees are a beautiful part of our yard. Seasons come and go, and our trees continually grow, providing us cool shade in the summer and a beautiful sight during fall. They shed their leaves in winter and come back to life in spring. The cycle that goes on the trees is more alive than ever.

Beautiful and charming as they may be, it is important to remember that trees still need our help so that they remain well-formed and healthy. Here, trimming becomes a vital part of the tree’s maintenance as well. In this post, we’ll share with you some of the reasons why regular tree trimming is beneficial for your trees and your property as well.

Keep Your Trees Healthy With Regular Trimming!

Tree trimming is something that becomes a necessity after a time period. You can’t allow trees on your property to grow haphazardly as it may result in some sort of accident or damage to your property. Tree trimming should be done by a professional arborist only.

Have you made plans to trim the old trees on your property? A lot of people really trim trees in their properties quite frequently yet it is not really an easy task or one that can be done without much effort. However, normal trimming can have certain benefits to offer.

In a few cases, when the tree development ends up becoming unmanageable, then it may result in damage the house structure, or the neighbouring electrical cables. In reality, it can also lead to growth of undesirable branches to become unchecked and these may break due to wind and pressure, which makes the tree more vulnerable to infections.

While the procedure of tree development proceeds, you may need to guarantee that the tree does not develop inconveniently. Considering these factors, trimming the tree at the right time can really enable you to maintain the shape of the tree. Experts say that trimming at the right intervals makes them look amazingly beautiful as well.

This is the reason why trimming is crucial for the tree and for your house also in light of the fact that a fully developed tree looks extraordinary in your garden and apart from enhancing the cost of your property, it will likewise help in various ways to keep your home protected from extreme and adverse weather conditions.

On the other hand, it’s also important that people have vast knowledge about trimming, if they’re planning to do the job on their own. If homeowners in Sydney don’t have much knowledge in this field, then it’s better to hire someone who knows how to do the job in the best way possible. A well-qualified arborist can provide assistance to figure out what’s best for your trees because each tree is different in how it grows and what steps should be taken to protect it from diseases.

In some parts, particularly branches die after some time and they should be expelled routinely else they can spread the disease to other parts of the tree, or can fall and injured anyone. Remember, if you think that your tree is old or its branches have some type of disease, then it better if don’t stand underneath it, nor allow your children to play near it.

What is most imperative is that the structural requirements should be steady because your trees won’t confront only one sort of climate conditions and it has to deal with may have extreme heat, harsh winters,  strong winds, heavy rains, snowfall, hail and so on.

Many individuals say it is the smart thing to complete tree trimming Sydney in the winters. This might be a smart move considering that the costs of most expert arborists are down in the winters and you may get a decent deal and save some cash.

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PRUNING TREES IN SPRING: Tree Trimming For A Safer Bloom

Written by Anna Woodward and published on http://www.articlesfactory.com/

As you’ve been admiring all the fresh green growth in your yard this spring, perhaps you’ve noticed something else, too. Like excessive growth of a tree or shrub that you want to cut. Generally, the best time to prune most trees is when they’re leafless in winter. But as you know, with each rule of thumb, there are exceptions.

In general, heavy pruning in spring can limit the tree’s bloom potential for the year. Plus, trimming in spring can leave cuts on trees that leave them more vulnerable to an insect infestation or disease. But, you can safely do some tree pruning in spring–as long as you don’t remove any more than 10 percent of the tree’s branches.

Read on to learn more about spring tree pruning.

Tree Trimming for a Safer Bloom

Tree trimming should always be left to professionals who possess the skill, training, and effective tools to do a quick and safe job for you. This may involve pruning or simply sprucing up the landscape, but tree trimming is a necessity for not only your safety but the plant’s health and the natural aesthetic appeal of trees.

You rely on the foliage on your property to add beauty to your property when the plants are in bloom for their flowers, fruits, nuts, and colors throughout the year. When the weather warms up, you enjoy the shade and the addition of a swing for your children when they aren’t trying to climb up among the branches. Or you use those same branches for your fall and winter holiday decorations. The plants on your property add beauty, floral fragrance to the air, and comfort in their shade. However, tree trimming is a necessity of their presentation, their health, or maintenance of their size if they are particularly huge or hanging over other structures on your property.

Late dormant season, or late winter, is the best time for tree trimming on your established trees. When the call the professionals in before spring growths, they are able to make the cuts that serve both your aesthetic shaping purposes and your safety concerns with play areas or property nearby. On one hand, when rouge branches lean against your windows, rest upon your roof, or are intertwined with nearby power lines, they pose a threat to the safety of your family and the construction of your home. You can prune above new buds to force the new growths in a particular direction, or you can opt for the permanent removal of large branches by having them cut above the stem tissue at the base of the branch. On the other hand, the pruning process is a necessity of plant and tree care. The process helps to control growth, promote growth or to remove deadening or damaged parts.

The three most prevalent types of pruning for the care and beauty of your trees and shrubs are known as crown thinning, crown raising, and crown reduction. They improve light penetration, walkway clearance, or height reduction, respectively. The tree experts that you choose will be able to recommend one or a variety of pruning techniques in order to improve conditions such as crowded branches, sucker growth, water sprouts, rubbing branches, and branch stubs.

In conclusion, homeowners as well as business owners, in a particularly green area, can seek tree trimming for aesthetic and safety reasons. First, aesthetic branch cutbacks are just a part of what adds to the health and foliage of the plants, for the best landscape appearance. It is a necessity to tidy up the appearance of all of the components of any outdoor living spaces or just complimentary greenery to any property. Second, the safety cutback of the plant removes any dead, dying, damaged, or overgrown branches that can pose a threat to other persons or property. Regardless of the reasoning your seek pruning and sprucing up of the plant life on your property, as long as you select qualified professionals with a healthy dose of horticulture in their background, your plants will be in good hands.

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Plants That Cause Rashes: How to Identify, Avoid and Treat Them

Written by Toni Leland and published on https://davesgarden.com/

Being out in the greenery is rejuvenating, but a relaxing stroll can become a pain if you get too cozy with the bushes. If you develop rash or blisters soon after a walk, don’t be too quick to blame it on the bugs!

Many harmless-looking plants in the wild can cause skin irritation in humans. People may react differently to the toxins in these plants, and you can get anywhere from insignificant rashes to horrendous blisters depending on your susceptibility. 

When you accidentally brush against the leaves or stems of a poisonous plant, you can get contact dermatitis, which looks like a rash that may be short-lived or may require emergency medical attention.  

To help you avoid this unpleasantness, let’s have a look at some common toxic plants, what they look like, how you can identify them, and where you may encounter them. 

Plants That Irritate the Skin: Beyond Poison Ivy

Ever wonder why some plants cause rashes or reactions when handled or touched? Basically, it’s the same protective mechanism that animals and insects use to keep from becoming a predator’s lunch! Ever see a deer or rabbit munching on poison ivy? Animals, birds, and other wildlife either have natural instincts or learn at a tender age about which plants to avoid.

As gardeners and lovers of the outdoors, it’s a good idea to understand which plants we should take care to avoid–or at least take precautions to handle the specimen carefully. Some individuals are not susceptible to the toxicity of poisonous plants, but others are so vulnerable that only brief contact with an offending plant can be dangerous or even fatal. I cannot even brush a bare arm against a tomato leaf without an immediate burning reaction; but I can eat the fruit. My mother could not hull strawberries without breaking out into a rash on her hands. My granddaughter brushed against a scented geranium and, one hour later, had huge hives all over her arms. One popular plant in the photo at right is a culprit for contact dermatitis: the caladium!

Differing Defense Mechanisms

Four distinct types of defense are used by the plant world: mechanical, chemical, phototoxic, and mechanical-chemical.

Mechanical defenses use sharp parts of the plant such as thorns or barbs. Some grasses have razor-sharp blades, and some bamboo species have bristles which break off and penetrate the skin. These mechanical injuries are not dangerous by themselves, but the broken skin and portal for infection can be. Plants using mechanical defenses include, among others:

• Acacia
• Barberry
• Black locust
• Blackberry
• Cactus
• Euphorbia
• Hoodia
• Pyracantha
• Raspberry
• Rattan palm
• Rose
• Spike plant
• Thistles

Chemical defenses are used by the largest group of plants. In this situation, some portion of the plant structure can enter the skin without an open portal. Dermatitis usually shows up within several hours. Saps and juices cause painful irritation and sometimes permanent damage, especially if the substance gets into the eyes. These same plants can cause poisoning if burned, since the chemical is released in the smoke and enters mucous membranes and lungs. The upas tree contains a sap that is not an irritant, but is deadly if it gets into even the tiniest scratch on the skin. Quite a number of plants fall into the chemical defense category, and some are common in our homes and gardens. More importantly, travelers should be aware of these plants when in unfamiliar territory.

• Black poison wood and blinding tree (aka blind-your-eye, buta-buta)
• Blue-green algae; Cyanobacteria
• Caladium
• Calla lily
• Cashew nut tree
• Chrysanthemum
• Dieffenbachia; dumb cane
• Eastern poison oak
• Elephant Ear
• Jack in the pulpit
• Manchineel tree (aka manchioneal, manzanillo-baum)
• Marigold
• Mother-in-law’s tongue (aka sword plant)
• Philodendron
• Poinsettia
• Poison hemlock (pictured at right)
• Eastern poison ivy
• Poison sumac
• Rainbow leaf; African poison ivy
• Sandbox tree
• Schefflera
• Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
• Strawberries (fruit)
• Tomato (leaves)
• Upas or Ipoh Tree (Antiaris)
• Wandering Jew
• Western poison oak
• Wild parsnip

Phototoxic defenses are not as numerous as the others, but just as painful. The plant chemical does no damage on its own, but will react violently when exposed to sunlight. Plants known for this defense are:

• Angelica
• Carrot
• Celery
• Bishop’s weed
• Fennel
• Figs
• Giant hogweed (aka parsnip tree, Russian hogweed parsley)
• Parsnip
• Queen Anne’s Lace (pictured at right)
• Rue (as an insecticide)
• Wild chervil
• Wild Rhubarb

Mechanical-chemical defenses are more sophisticated, using two methods to disburse toxins, providing an entry point for the chemical. Stinging nettle is the best example of this. What look like hairs on the leaves and stems are actually microscopic hollow needles filled with poison.

• Ciega-vista
• Cowhage (aka cow-itch)
• Dieffenbachia (aka dumb cane)
• Giant stinging tree
• Gympie
• Nettle tree (aka ortiga, chichicaste)
• Nilgiri nettle
• Noseburn
• Sticky Willy (aka cleavers)
  
• Stinging spurge
• Fever nettle
• Wood nettle

Many of the above-named plants are also poisonous if ingested, and some of the species which cause chemical reactions can be lethal if the sap or latex gets into the bloodstream.

When working around any plant that has known toxicity, protect yourself with gloves and long sleeves, pants that cover ankles, and wear protective glasses. Take care when camping or hiking in regions with which you are not familiar. When traveling to other countries, be very aware of the local “no-touch” flora.

If accidentally exposed, immediately wash the area twice with soap and water. If inflammation begins, use hydrocortisone cream to calm the burning and itching. If symptoms persist more than 14 days, consult your physician.

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How To Transplant A Tree From The Pot Into Your Yard

Written by Jill M. Nicolaus and published on https://davesgarden.com/

Whether they’re deciduous or evergreen, shade or ornamental, trees add value and curb appeal to any property. But occasionally, a tree’s placement presents some problems. Perhaps it blocks a construction project like a home expansion or deck addition. Maybe the tree is floundering from inadequate light, soil, or water conditions in its current location.

A tree might also start growing too close to the house or surrounding structures, preventing healthy development. Whatever the situation, that poorly positioned tree doesn’t have to get you down or get chopped down. As long as the healthy sapling’s tree trunk isn’t larger than 2 inches in diameter, a tree owner can follow this guide for how to transplant a tree to another spot in the yard.

How to Plant a Tree: Getting It Out of the Nursery Pot and Into Your Yard

You just bought a beautiful tree in a pot, and you have the perfect spot for it in your yard. What’s the best way to plant it? This step by step photo tutorial answers some common questions about planting trees.You may have heard, “Dig a $100 hole for a $10 tree,” and it’s good advice. Extra time spent doing a good job of planting your new tree will pay off as the tree settles in and starts to grow strongly in its new home.

When should you plant? Bare root trees are best planted in early spring, or when they are dormant. Potted trees, on the other hand, can be planted any time you can dig a hole in the ground. It’s best not to dig when the ground is very wet, especially if you have heavy clay soil that will compact to form a watertight tomb around the rootball. If the ground is frozen or very dry, it may be so hard that you can barely make a dent in the surface, let alone a hole. Under any other conditions, you are good to go!

How big should you dig? The general rule of thumb is to dig a hole about twice the diameter of the pot. In poor soil, or with a particularly treasured specimen, I go for three times the diameter. The hole should be no deeper than the depth of the rootball, with sloping sides for good drainage. Before you start digging, double check the placement of your hole to be sure you’ve left enough space around your tree for its mature size.

How deep should you plant the tree? It’s often good to have a quarter to a third of the rootball above the level of the surrounding soil, especially if your soil doesn’t drain especially well. In our heavy clay soil, we plant all trees above grade, and we mound soil up around them as we fill in the hole. Never plant the tree deeper than it was growing in its pot.

What if the potted tree is rootbound? With a rootbound tree, you’ll see a solid mass of roots when you remove the pot, including roots that circle around the outside of the rootball. If you simply stick the rootball in the ground like that, the roots tend to continue growing around in the same shape rather than expanding out into the surrounding soil. If that happens, the tree can die. Loosening and untangling the circling roots so you can spread them out in the planting hole can save a rootbound tree. You can also make several vertical slices into the rootball, just an inch or so deep, to stop the roots from continuing to circle.

How should you position a tree? Carefully! Don’t rush. Take a break after your digging, and have a cold drink while you consider the tree from various distances and viewing angles. Place the tree upright in the hole, with a helper to hold and turn it. Think about how its branch structure may look as the tree grows. Don’t forget to look at it from up on the deck, or from an upstairs window. Think about whether a particular overhanging branch will be in the way, and turn the tree so that branch will grow in a better direction. You’ll probably have this tree for a very long time, and this is your best opportunity to situate it exactly where you want it.

Should you amend the soil? Some say soil amendments help, and others say the tree needs to adapt to the native soil in your yard or it will never want to grow beyond its planting hole. The soil in our yard is pretty nasty clay. If I didn’t amend it, I don’t think our newly planted trees and shrubs would survive. I add 30-50% compost, bark fines, old potting mix, peat moss, or any other composted organic material I have on hand. I also add a handful of my favorite watering aid, polymer moisture crystals.

Should you fertilize? The answer to that may depend on the tree, but most seem to appreciate a dose of time release fertilizer in their planting hole. Watering in a newly planted tree with half strength water soluble fertilizer (such as Miracle Gro^TM) or an additive like SuperThrive^TM can also give it an initial boost.

Should you stomp the soil into place? You could, but there’s a better way. As you shovel the amended soil around the tree and into the hole, stop two or three times to water it in a little. Not only does this give your new tree a good drink, it’s also a great way to settle the soil around the roots and to eliminate air pockets.

What about mulch? Yes! Several inches of landscape mulch will keep down weeds and hold in moisture. However, do pull the mulch back several inches from the trunk on all sides. Having organic mulch right up against the trunk can lead to pests and disease.

To stake, or not to stake? If you’re not sure staking is needed to stabilize your new tree, stake it. Put one stake on each side of the tree, and run ropes from the stakes to the trunk. Use sections of tubing or old garden hose to protect the bark from chafing. Taut-line hitches allow easy adjustment without making the ropes overly tight. After a season or two, remove the ropes and the stakes. Don’t leave the ropes around the tree, or they’ll cut into the tree as it grows.

Take a little extra time to plan the placement of your tree, to dig it a nice hole, and to stake and mulch it after planting. The care you put into planting a young tree now will be repaid a thousand times over as the tree grows to become a prized feature of your landscape.

For more information, check out our Trees and Shrubs Discussion Forum. Your local agricultural extension service office should have additional information on selecting and planting trees best suited for your area and situation.

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The Dangerous Side Of Your Coconut Tree

Written by Jean-Jacques Segalen and published on https://davesgarden.com/

The coconut tree is not only beautiful but also very useful. Valued commercially for beauty products, oils, and raw fruit, coconuts are widely grown in areas with tropical weather. However, different kinds of coconut tree problems may interfere with the healthy growth of this tree. Therefore, proper diagnosis and treatment of coconut tree issues are essential in order for the tree to thrive.

The Death of a Coconut Tree

The well-educated readers of Dave’s Garden will of course notice that this title is a clear reference to DH Lawrence essay’s ‘Reflections on the death of a porcupine’ which has always greatly inspired mebut of course it will be about the end of one of this tropical marvel, the coconut tree.

Besides the literary appeal, today’s article can be related to two former writings some of you may remember, “A most useful tropical plant” which stated how wonderful are coconut trees and “Pruning, trimming, lopping and aerial wood-cutting,” which introduced one of my professional activities as a tree surgeon. Now, as I also train people to become tree surgeons themselves I will take you today with me on a training day.

Of course it is an absolute prerequisite that you wear a helmet or hardhat with noise attenuators as we will be fooling around with chainsaws and I do not want you to lose your fine hearing nor get your skull damaged by a falling coconut. So, today’s topic will be sectional felling or dismantling which is basically the removing of a tree or trunk by sawing it in bits lowered to the ground with a rope. This is done when felling from the ground (also called clear felling) is impossible, usually because of a structure in the way: house, swimming pool, fragile plants, subterranean water pipes or any other good enough reason. As the tree or palm is to be destroyed, the tree specialist can use gaffs, also know as spurs, climbers or spikes. Those are sharp steel spikes which are secured to both feet by pads and straps and allow one to climb up by sticking them in the wood, the upper body being kept balanced with the aid of a land-yard (or flip-line) attached to the hips, those devices being alternatively raised to move up. Spurs are used for palm trees such as the coconut trees although they do hurt the trees with the added problem of lack of cambium tissues in palm trees, cambium as you all know is responsible for healing injuries made to trees.

The coconut tree to be felt…	Getting ready to climb

A coconut tree indeed is a useful tree as you now all know but its generosity towards man can turn into an excessive will to please, imagine one of those nutritious and strong nut falling from thirty to sixty feet up right on your skull! A green one will weight some 2 or 3 kilos (4 to 6 pounds) while a dry one will only be a third of this weight but enough to knock you out, which a falling dry leaf can also perform quite effectively so those are arguments which decide the suppressing of such a tree when growing over a public path in a zoo. Oh yes! I forgot to tell you that today you would be within the St-Denis (our local capital here on Reunion Island) local zoo…though this one is running low at the moment as it is being drastically restructured, it still keeps going with people and animals, plus the possible tree cutters! All right, back to your aim for today, this coconut tree has now become dangerous and is bending over a path. We cannot fell it in one piece as this would most probably damage the underlying pavement and probably adjacent fences as well so we will have to take it down piece by piece. First part will be to get down leaves and coconuts clusters; leaves will be sawed off and let to fall, nuts will be secured with a rope going through a pulley secured with a strap so they would not explode when reaching the ground. As most trainees have already mastered the use of spikes I will have one of them doing the job; when he reaches the top he will of course secure himself by sliding a false crotch around two or three palm base and placing his main rope. This here is extremely important as it will give him two attachment points (lanyard plus rope) in case he accidentally cuts one which can happen pretty fast when using a chainsaw…Once the coco nut tree is bare of leaves one can clearly see the ‘head’ which contains the apical bud or cabbage, the active growing part of the plant which unluckily for him is also a delight for men’s greediness! I guess that quite a few of the readers here have tasted palm cabbage as a canned veggie, good but a pale ersatz of the fresh thing. And the fresh ones you get in tropical countries usually come from fast growing species such as Dictyosperma album, Archantophoenix rubra (both endemic to the Mascareignes archipelago!), while mass production from usually comes from Bactris gasipaes, Euterpe edulis and E.oleracea but all those are nothing compared to the delicacy of coconut cabbage!

On the way up, watch your steps!	Lowering a nuts cluster with the rope

All right, by the time our friendly trainee is back on the ground I have rigged myself out and am ready for the next step. As you can see one has to be very well organized and clear-minded in order to set all the necessary gizmos for the job; we not only wear a heavy chainsaw safety jacket, protection boots with the gaffs attached, wire-core flip line, climbing rope plus adjustable false-crotch, lowering rope plus pulley (or rigging block), chainsaw, helmet with eyes and ears protection, quite a few extra kilos. And I always add a bottle of water as the work is quite exerting. Up I go, do not stay too close to the tree please. Well, here I am on the top, nice view on the Indian Ocean, folks! But yes, you are right, I am not here for leisure so let’s get back to work now. Dismantling is rather similar to felling at ground level with the utmost difference that you are attached to the trunk so there is no way to run for life if you make a mistake but the basics are the same: a notch to determine where the tree or chunk will fall and a back-cut to let it go. The notch needs some experience to be performed correctly, it consists in a horizontal cut and a sloping cut which allows you to remove a piece of wood looking like a watermelon slice, we will not deepen this as we are not loggers. Anyway here is the process; I make my notch then wrap a sling around the trunk in order to hold a pulley, my lowering rope goes through the pulley and I use a Killick hitch to secure the chunk to be lowered. I see a few frowns; you mean you forgot what a Killick hitch is? Come on, you learnt it last week! It is simply a half hitch followed by a timber hitch, now I can see on your face you know what I am talking about. The descending part of the rope will now be conducted through a friction device by my partner on the ground, for today we will use a simple figure-eight which allows the worker to lower a medium heavy load. And now the back-cut, I will not cut it straight away and have the chunk falling freely, when I see that it starts moving I shut off the engine, put back the saw on its hook, make sure my partner is ready and push on the load to make it fall. Just as it starts flipping I have to throw both hands flat on the trunk and straighten my arms as the shock loading when the lowering rope catches the weight will shake the whole trunk and make me play Woody Woodpecker for a few seconds. If you do not extend you arms you may very well kiss the trunk or more crudely smash your face on it…Everything went fine, I will now get back down and have one trainee extracting the cabbage for lunch…time flies! We will have to get back in the afternoon in order to remove the remaining of the trunk and clean the place of course.

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Care Of Damaged Tree: Information For Stressed Injured Tree

Written by Toni Leland and published on https://davesgarden.com/

It is disconcerting to discover a problem with your plants. Instead of getting worked up over things you cannot do and throwing them away, however, why not learn what you can do? The basic care of damaged plants may not be as difficult as you think. With a little know-how, you can find ways for reviving stress damaged plants and making them well again.

Stressed or Damaged Trees and Shrubs: Save or Replace?

Winter weather often takes a heavy toll on our landscape elements. Breakage from ice and snow, wind damage and uprooting, and the terminal effects of salting the roads and streets for months on end. Additionally, long-term use of herbicides can detrimentally affect our trees and shrubs. One day, we look out and discover that the magnificent maple in the front yard is all but dead, or the nice evergreen hedge has yellowed. While it’s better to maintain these landscape specimens with an eye to preventing the damage, sometimes we are simply faced with a difficult decision.

(Editor’s Note: This article was originally published on April 20, 2009.)

The 80-year-old silver maple pictured here suffered under the wrath of Hurricane Ike. When a large limp snapped off like a matchstick, the wound revealed the inner signs of aging: a hollow trunk and rot in places. The answer was clear: take the tree down, as it would never be healthy enough to survive. We did not replace it, since the mature grove of trees in which it stood provides so much shade that a young new tree would have a difficult time thriving.

Many factors affect our trees and shrubs during their lifetimes: age, weather, soil conditions, drought, physical damage, insects and disease, and all too often, human-induced stress. Some of these can be corrected with the probable result of bringing a tree or shrub back to health and longevity. Other factors cannot be controlled, such as drought, storms, and age.

Making Decisions to Save and Protect

For specimens affected by controllable factors, determine the extent of the stress or damage, then assess the value of the tree or shrub, either in terms of monetary, aesthetic, or sentimental. If you can save it, do so–especially mature elements that would leave a very bare spot in your landscape.
Soil Conditions: Most woody ornamentals and trees will thrive only if the soil conditions are correct for the species. When one of these begins to fail and you can find no other reason, consider testing the soil as far out as the drip line to ascertain whether the soil still meets the plant’s requirements. If the soil pH needs adjustment, follow your local extension’s guidelines for amendment. Sometimes, the soil has simply lost all its nutrients through rainfall and runoff over the years. Special fertilizers and organic mulch can often help boost the nutrients available to the roots.Drainage: Poor drainage of runoff can result in overly wet conditions. Most roots will not grow in an area that is constantly wet. If you suspect that water is pooling underground in an area, dig several hole measuring a foot deep and a foot wide. Fill the holes with water; if the water has not drained within 24 hours, it means the area is saturated. Drainage tiles can be installed to improve this situation. Additionally, a rain garden can be situated in an area close by, and the runoff from gutters directed toward that instead of the natural contour of the land.Physical Damage: Except in the instance of weather related stressors, most damage can be prevented with a little forethought.

• Lawn mowers and string trimmers are not a tree’s best friend. Once cambial tissue on the trunk is damaged, the tree or woody ornamental is open to infestation by insects or disease. Mowing over exposed roots is another bad practice.
• Tree limbs or shrubs that rub against a building can be damaged, so trim away small limbs and branches, and cut back larger ones.
• Over-mulching creates perfect conditions for fungal growth at the base of a tree or shrub. Use no more than 2-3 inches of mulch, and keep it at least 3-6 inches away from the trunk.
• Exposed roots should never be covered with soil; this suffocates them by obstructing drainage, and air and water penetration, causing eventual death of the tree.
• Construction and landscaping can damage tree roots not only by cutting them, but also by compacting the soil. Pore space is needed for the exchange of gases, and compacted soil lacks this important feature.
• The root systems of trees and shrubs are in the upper 12 inches of soil and are therefore easily damaged by toxic spills. Household cleaning products, car washing compounds, cleaners for vinyl siding and patio furniture, petroleum products, lawn care products (especially those containing dicamba), and herbicides are just a few of the chemicals that can be taken up into the roots. Use prudence when applying herbicides and weed killers and, when possible, use organic methods of control. Choose environmentally friendly car care products and washing solutions for decks, furniture, and siding. Our landscape plants notwithstanding, these products also eventually end up in the groundwater.
• Insects & Disease: Healthy plants seldom fall prey to insect infestation or disease, but being in tune and on top of your trees and shrubs on an on-going basis will alert you to any signs of these problems. Use as many organic and earth-friendly management practices as you can to reduce destructive insect populations. Manage broken limbs and damaged trunks to prevent the occurrence and spread of disease. Be aware of what diseases and insect pests are of danger to your trees and shrubs.

What if it’s Out of Our Hands?

Weather: Some weather related damage can be prevented or minimized by preparing certain plantings for the usual weather events in your area. For in-depth information on this type of preparation, read “Winter’s Wrath: Ice and Snow Damage.”Many areas use salt on the roads to provide safe driving conditions. Unfortunately, the salt is detrimental to our landscape shrubs and trees. If you live in an area where salt is the choice for winter road maintenance, chances are you’ve seen the brown, dry evidence of salt intake on foliage that sits near a road. Avoid piling snow near your shrubs or trees. Find alternative melting methods for driveways and walkways, such as sand, cat litter, or sawdust. In early spring, flush the soil around the plantings with at least 2 inches of water for 2 to 3 hours, then repeat three days later.¹ This will remove much of the accumulated salt from the soil. If the plants show signs of having been sprayed with salty water, rinse the foliage and branches thoroughly.During drought conditions, be sure to water heavily and often. The ground surface becomes hard and resistant to absorbing water, so as soon as the dry weather comes, be vigilant.Age: As with all things, the life cycle of a tree or shrub will come to an end. Monitor your oldest specimens to be aware of when they begin to fail. Increase in broken or dead limbs, poor leafing in spring, signs of rot in the trunk: these are the red flags that tell you a specimen is reaching the end of its lifespan. If a tree is close to your home or power lines, or even in close proximity to a neighbor, consider the consequences of that tree coming down in a storm. Have an arborist take a look and be confident in any recommendations he or she might make.

It’s heartbreaking to lose a beloved tree or shrub, but in the life of a garden, this is a reality. Use every resource available to you to make the decision to save or replace your landscape elements.

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Proper Way Of Pruning Young Trees

Written by Dr. Andy Pulte and published on https://www.finegardening.com/

Where you make a pruning cut is critical to a tree’s response in growth and wound closure. Make pruning cuts just outside the branch collar. Because the branch collar contains trunk or parent branch tissues, the tree will be damaged unnecessarily if you remove or damage it. In fact, if the cut is large, the tree may suffer permanent internal decay from an improper pruning cut.

Proper pruning is essential in developing a tree with a strong structure and desirable form. Trees that receive the appropriate pruning measures while they are young will require little corrective pruning when they mature. Keep these few simple principles in mind before pruning a tree:

Proper Pruning for Young Trees

Establishing a good structure for your young tree helps head off long-term issues

The act of planting a deciduous tree, particularly one you know will get quite large, comes with thoughts of the size and grandeur it will achieve over time. Knowing what a tree can become fills us with optimism and hope. All of us want to get it right, taking care in planting to make sure our new tree gets off to a good start. Conventional wisdom—and even some experts—tell us not to prune at the time of planting. This has merit. Pruning adds strain at a time when the tree is already overcoming the stresses of the planting process. That said, gardeners have a unique opportunity moments before a tree goes in the ground. Every part of the tree is accessible, and structural defects can easily and quickly be corrected. Many experts, myself included, are now advocating for at least some pruning at the time of planting, as long as it’s seasonally appropriate (avoid late-season pruning) and you don’t go overboard (remove no more than 40% of the canopy).

Before planting, the entire tree is accessible to pruning without ladders or specialty pruning equipment. Start by making a total assessment of the tree. It is possible that the tree is structurally sound and nothing will be required. However, while the tree is in its pot or on its side (if you are planting balled-and-burlapped), this is your last best chance to make quick and easy structural adjustments. If the tree isn’t likely to receive structural pruning routinely to remove defects over the next 15 years, even when it becomes large, then this will be the best chance to overcome long-term issues. Also, trees are resilient, particularly when they are young, and will almost certainly recover from early pruning. The following are some significant structural defects—poor tree architecture that can lead to breakage or tree failure over time—you might encounter in a tree, along with some instructions on how to fix them at the time of planting.

Ensure there is only one leader

The term “codominant stems” is used to describe two or more main stems that are in competition with each other (often called “multi-leaders”). These stems are often similar in diameter and emerge from near the same location on the main trunk. Codominant stems tend to fail at a higher rate during storms. Additionally, over time the stems may push against each other, and cracks may form below the stem.

Start by identifying which stem will be the dominant leader. Choose a stem that is fairly straight and centrally located. Then completely remove competing branches, or shorten them by removing the terminal portion back to a living lateral branch of equal or smaller diameter (see illustration, p. 36). These “reduction cuts” encourage the tree’s leader to grow upward and reduce competition to that leader. Reduction cuts can also be used to balance the overall look of the tree and help reduce the amount of material being removed.

Establish a healthy scaffold

1. Branches with overly narrow angles create bark inclusions, folds of bark that reduce the amount of attachment branches have to the main trunk or to scaffold branches. Bark inclusions may not be obvious on a young tree but can be avoided by removing branches that don’t have wide angles of attachment.

2. Clustered low branches can negatively impact the central leader of the tree, spoil tree structure, and shorten the overall life of the tree. Remove those branches that seem like clutter, bearing in mind the goal of scaffold branches evenly dispersed around the tree.

3. Large opposite branches can grow aggressively, causing structural weakness.

Beyond establishing a central leader, most other pruning is done for the purpose of establishing good scaffold branches, the primary limbs that form a tree’s canopy. These branches should be smaller than the trunk (half the size is ideal) and, when possible, spaced somewhat evenly around the tree. Deciding on scaffold branches is not something that happens all on planting day. You can, however, form a loose plan on which branches will be the major component of the tree’s canopy (see top illustration, this page).

Tree pruning is a skill that is learned over time. The above information is truly the beginning. Additionally, some species’ natural structure doesn’t conform to textbook-perfect pruning. I encourage you to continue the process of learning how to prune trees in a way that leads to overall better structure. As with people and pets, the process of training a tree is much easier at the beginning of its life.

What is apical dominance?

The trees in your backyard have relatives growing in a forest somewhere. Particularly at a young age, many of these forest trees are devoting a lot of their energy to growing upward, which means more light and perhaps a better chance at survival. Apical dominance is a forest tree’s ticket from the forest floor to the top of the canopy. It occurs when the main shoot releases hormones down the stem to inhibit the growth of lower buds and branches. Apical dominance ensures a healthy structure that maximizes light and resources for the tree.

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Ash Tree Care: How To Protect Your Ash Tree

Written by Admin and published on https://www.bioadvanced.com/

The borer kills a tree by creating tunnels as they eat through the tree’s nutrient-conducting tissues. They destroy the channels that transport water from the tree’s roots to its leaves, as well as the sugars produced in photosynthesis flowing from the leaves to the roots. Once attacked, small trees may die within 1-2 years of becoming infested and large trees can be killed in 3-4 years. If caught early enough, infested ash trees can be treated and protected.

Homeowners should monitor their ash trees for signs and symptoms of EAB. One of the first signs is canopy dieback of the upper branches. If left untreated, the tree will die. If the ash tree still looks healthy, the time to protect the tree is now. Once it’s in decline, it may be too late. Either way, there is a cost to treat a live tree or removing a dead one.

Protect Your Ash Tree

Identifying Ash Trees

Before you can determine if you have an Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) problem, you must first identify whether or not you have Ash trees. Use these common criteria for identifying Ash.

Leaves

Ash trees feature compound leaves made of 5-11 leaflets. Ash leaves also have opposite budding, with leaflets being directly across from each other.

Branches

Like their leaves, Ash tree branches are also directly across from each other – not staggered.

Bark

Young Ash trees will have relatively smooth bark, while mature trees will have tight bark featuring distinct diamond-shaped ridges.

Seeds

When present, Ash tree seeds will usually be clustered together as dry, oar-shaped samaras.

Signs Of Infestation

Here are some helpful tips on what to look for in your Ash trees for signs of stress and infestation.

Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) Adult

Metallic green-colored adults emerge in early summer to feed on Ash foliage and lay eggs on bark. Little noticeable damage is caused by EAB adults.Photograph by Leah Bauer, USDA Forest Service Northern Research Station, Bugwood.org

EAB Larvae

Eggs hatch into larvae during late summer and fall. Larvae tunnel into trees to feed under the bark, thereby destroying the tree’s ability to transport water and nutrients. Larvae leave S-shaped galleries under the bark of the trunk and branches. Photograph: Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources – Forestry Archive, Bugwood.org

The Next Year

Larvae spend the winter under the bark, pupate into adults, and emerge in early summer. As the adults exit the tree, they leave behind D-shaped exitholes. Eggs are laid soon thereafter and the destructive cycle begins again. Photograph by David Cappaert, Michigan State University, Bugwood.org

Check Your Ash Trees For Signs Of Stress

Can Your Ash Tree Be Saved?

Healthy trees can still be saved from EAB. Follow these easy steps to help you identify if your Ash trees can be treated with BioAdvanced Tree and Shrub product line.

Are your trees:

• Healthy and growing with more than half their leaves
• Less than 20″ in diameter at chest height
• Showing only few outward signs such as woodpecker damage, bark splits and water sprouts at the tree base

If your tree fits these criteria, 12 Month Tree & Shrub Protect & Feed may be for you. If your tree doesn’t fit these criteria, contact a certified arborist in your area. Photograph David Cappaert,Michigan State University, Bugwood.org

Protect And Feed Your Trees

• Use 12 Month Tree & Shrub Protect & Feed Liquids to keep your Ash trees healthy and happy
• Provides 12 months of systemic protection with one application
• Provides slow-release fertilizer
• Protects entire tree or shrub – especially new growth
• Prevents damage from destructive insects like Emerald Ash Borers, Japanese Beetles (Adult), Leafminers and other listed pests
• Just measure, mix and water in

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Top Trees: Popular Winter Blooming Trees

Written by Admin and published on https://www.bioadvanced.com/

Sure, growing and maintaining a beautiful garden during the spring, early summer and autumn is a piece of cake… you have the warm temperatures and sunny skies on your side. Once the winter season rolls around, it can feel impossible or useless to keep up with all your hard gardening work. It doesn’t have to be that way with winter-blooming plants.

There are actually quite a few beautiful trees with flowers (and other flowering plants – check out upcoming blogs) that thrive during the winter’s harsh cold weather and improve your winter landscape. Their bare branches can produce beautiful red flowers or white blooming clusters of showy blooms.

Top Trees That Bloom In Winter & Fall

Fall’s cooler temperatures provide ideal planting conditions, and it’s a great time to select trees for their autumn color. Trees at your local nursery are showcasing the same hues they’ll display in your yard. You can also drive around town or visit a local public garden to find trees with foliage you like – it’s also a good way to see a tree’s mature form and size.

As you narrow your wish list for trees with fall color, consider selecting trees that also show strong winter traits to further increase your yard’s seasonal appeal. Trees that do double seasonal duty will have you savoring the show from fall until spring.

Trees that Bloom in Winter

Chinese or Lacebark Elm(Ulmus parvifolia)

If you want an Elm that’s not susceptible to Dutch Elm Disease, plant this one. Fall leaf color varies from gold to orange to red, even purple. Exfoliating, mottled bark in shades of gray, green, orange or brown adds winter interest. The tree is vase-shaped; small leaves cast light shade. USDA Zones 5-10; 40-50 feet tall and wide.

Coral Bark Japanese Maple(Acer palmatum’Sango-kaku’)

Many Japanese Maples boast pretty autumn leaves, including the coral bark variety, which showcases gold fall foliage. In winter, this Japanese maple shines with coral-red bark. Bark develops the strongest color in full sun. USDA Zones 4-9; 12-20 feet tall, 12-15 feet wide.

Crape Myrtle(Lagerstroemia indica)

Crape Myrtle colors the summer and early fall landscape with lovely flowers in many shades. Autumn foliage offers yellow, orange or red tones. In winter, peeling brown bark exposes smooth, buff-colored wood beneath, creating a mottled effect. Arching branches offer an eye-catching form. Buy Crape Myrtle in bloom to ensure you’re getting the flower color you want. USDA Zones 7-10; 12-30 feet tall, 8-10 feet wide.

European Beech(Fagus sylvatica)

This stately pyramidal tree features leaves that turn golden bronze in autumn and linger on branches well into winter. Silvery gray, wrinkled bark creates a striking look in winter. Some cultivars have purple or variegated leaves. USDA Zones 4-7; 50-60 feet tall, 35-50 feet wide.

Japanese Stewartia(Stewartia pseudocamellia)

This selection provides multi-season interest with bronzy-purple spring foliage, Camellia-like blossoms in summer, and red and orange fall color. In winter, exfoliating bark displays patterns of white, beige and dark brown along the trunk. USDA Zones 5-8; 30-40 feet tall, 15-20 feet wide.

Paperbark Maple(Acer griseum)

This maple might be hard to find, but it’s worth the search. Fall leaves burnish bronze to brilliant red, and papery, peeling, cinnamon-colored bark looks lovely against winter snows. Branching is elegant and adds depth to winter landscapes. The peeling bark trait is strongest on younger trees. USDA Zones 4-8; 20-25 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide.

Serviceberry(Amelanchierspecies)

This native plant comes in various sizes, from shrub to small tree (15-20 feet tall). Look for cultivars of Allegheny Serviceberry (A. laevis) and Apple Serviceberry (A. x grandiflora) that offer blazing orange to red fall foliage. Selections to try include ‘Autumn Brilliance’ (15-25 feet tall), ‘Ballerina’ (to 20 feet tall), ‘Princess Diana’ (to 20 feet tall) and ‘Prince Charles’ (to 30 feet tall). Ridged bark is attractive in winter; a fine branch structure catches snow. Plants flower in spring, berries form in summer. USDA Zones 4-9; 15-20 feet tall and wide.

Sour Gum or Black Tupelo(Nyssa sylvatica)

This native tree ignites the fall landscape with foliage in brilliant shades of red, yellow, orange or purple. Nearly black bark with a blocky appearance adds appeal in the winter months. An excellent shade tree, Sour Gum resists insects and diseases but needs acidic to neutral, moist soil to thrive. USDA Zones 4-9; 30-50 feet tall, 20-30 feet wide.

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Ready To Plant A New Tree? How To Choose The Right Tree

Written by Admin and published on https://www.bioadvanced.com/

Planting a tree isn’t enough: It’s just as important to plant the right types of trees and plant them the right way in order to ensure their long-term health. Many urban tree losses can be attributed to improper planting practices, the wrong tree planted in the wrong place, or poor maintenance. Choosing a new tree is like choosing a new family member: It has to be a great fit!

The first step in choosing the right tree is to set a goal: Do you have a sunny front landscape that you need to shade? Do you need to plant a tree that offers shade, but won’t interfere with power lines? Are you looking for a spring blooming focal plant or maybe some fall color? No matter what reason you plant a tree, it’s good to consider the specific reasons why you need and want the tree.

Growing Trees: How To Choose A Tree

Trees are the most valuable and hardest-working part of our landscape. They shade our homes and neighborhoods cutting energy costs and increase property values. Trees add beauty, reduce air pollution and prevent soil erosion. It’s easy to find a reason for planting a tree. The hard part is choosing the right tree.

Young trees require special attention if you want them to become established landmarks in your landscape. The species you choose needs to be able to adapt to your climate, as well as to your specific planting site based on soil, sun exposure and resistance to area pests. We’re here to help you take the guesswork out of tree selection.

Why Are You Planting?

Before choosing a tree, think about why you’re planting it. Reasons vary, but might include:

• Casting shade
• Creating a windbreak
• Adding beauty with flowers
• Providing wildlife habitat or food source (seeds, fruit)
• Giving your yard fall color
• Growing edible fruit
• Screening a view
• Building a family legacy

Different trees offer different benefits. Start by planning with a purpose, and you’ll be happier with the results. Don’t be swayed too much by a tree’s ornamental quality. While spring blooms or fall color are appealing, it’s more important to choose a well-adapted tree that will grow into a size and shape you prefer. Be sure and check the USDA Hardiness Zones your tree choice is rated for. A tree not rated for your zone probably won’t survive. For suggestions of what grows best in your area, check with your local nursery or local Cooperative Extension System office.

Deciduous Or Evergreen?

At this stage, also decide what type of tree you want. Deciduous trees drop their leaves in fall or winter. They’re the trees that typically boast blazing fall color. Evergreen trees retain their foliage year-round. They add color to winter landscapes and provide a solid backdrop for perennials and ornamental grasses.

Where To Plant

Think carefully about where you plant and how you space your tree. Planting deciduous trees on the south, west or east sides of your home can provide summer shade and allow for warming winter sun. In fact, properly-placed deciduous trees can cut summer air conditioning costs up to 25 percent. Evergreens provide year-round privacy. Try planting them along the north side of your home as a windbreak to help cut winter heating bills. Don’t forget to check for buried underground utilities (call 811).

Determine The Growing Conditions

Start with sunlight. Your yard might have full sun, morning sun or shade. Knowing the amount of light your tree will need can help you pick the location it should be planted. Planting in full sun means paying close attention to your tree’s water needs and the value of mulch. Planting in shade could mean root competition from large trees. Sunlight needs, just like hardiness zones, can be found on the plant label.

Then check the soil. Different trees do better in different types. In areas of new construction, soil may be filled with construction debris or heavy clay. Some soils may be rocky or sandy. Some will have a higher pH. The most accurate way to determine your soil type is to do a soil test. Ask a nursery specialist or your local Cooperative Extension System office how to test your soil and, if necessary, how to adjust the pH.

Consider water needs. How much supplemental irrigation your tree will need is an important factor, especially in dry summer areas, like the Southwest, or areas where droughts are common. Native or drought-tolerant trees can survive with minimum of water and make an ideal choice.

Finally, check the drainage of your planting site by digging the planting hole, filling it with water, letting it drain and then refilling it. If the water isn’t gone in 6-8 hours, choose a tree that will survive in wet soils or select another planting site.

Measure Your Space

Make sure you have enough room for your tree to reach its mature height and spread. In general, place trees 10-15 feet away from your home’s foundation and at least 5 feet away from other structures. You don’t want its root system, which grows as the tree does, to damage the foundation or any paths. If you have room, consider planting a few trees together, since some trees like birches work well in groups.

You also shouldn’t automatically favor the fastest-growing tree you can find. For example, a poplar or willow will grow very fast, but will often be short-lived and weak-wooded. Many fast-growing trees boast less than desirable traits, including weak limbs, short life spans or aggressive roots. Slower growers like oaks and ginkgoes will usually be stronger and longer lasting. In other words, going for the quick effect is often not the best choice.

Digging Your Planting Hole

When you’re ready to plant, dig a hole as deep as the tree’s rootball and twice as wide. Refill the hole with the same soil you took out and don’t amend the backfill soil. Research has shown this can slow the tree’s adaptation or establishment to its site. Let the tree sit about 1” above the surrounding soil level.

Don’t Forget These Items

• Litter – Learn if your tree has falling fruit, blooms, leaves or bark that could create a mess on pavement or outdoor living surfaces.
• Pests – Research to discover if your tree is susceptible to diseases or pests. Purchase resistant varieties if possible.
• Growth speed – Because they have often been in pots longer, trees from bigger containers are often slower to become established than trees planted from smaller containers.

Check Locally

Choose a tree that’s available locally. Visit garden centers and nurseries to review their selections. It’s a good idea to do that early in the process as you’re narrowing down your choices. You can also frequently find lists of suggested trees for your region from regional gardening books, city offices and your local Cooperative Extension System office. 

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How To Prevent Diseases in Fruit Trees

Written by Admin and published on https://www.bioadvanced.com/

Fruit trees are a great asset to any garden or landscape. They provide shade, flowers, a yearly harvest, and a great talking point. They can also be very vulnerable to disease. Keep reading to learn more about the identification of fruit tree diseases and fruit tree disease treatments.

If you maintain any pitted fruit trees such as plums, peaches, or cherries, I’m sure you know that those types of trees are much more susceptible to diseases than any other type. While the fruits are delicious, it can be rather hard to live with all of the maladies that can plague the life of everyone who has ever grown one of those types of fruit trees.

Tree Care: Preventing Fruit Tree Diseases

Food gardening is more popular than ever. From harvesting edibles with incredible flavor to just simply knowing where your food comes from, the joys of “growing your own” are undeniable. But its also true that growing your own food is more challenging that just about any other type of gardening, especially when it comes to growing your own fruit.

To produce a quality harvest, fruit trees need some special care, particularly when it comes to controlling diseases. And that’s where you can help. Fruit diseases like brown rot, scab and fire blight can turn the best laid plans into a totally fruitless experience. Here are some problems you can expect and how to avoid them.

Know The Local Problems

Fruit diseases can be extremely regional. Check with your local Cooperative Extension System office for which ones are most troubling in your area. They can provide you with latest information on disease outbreaks, variety adaptation and proper timing of control measures (many states publish fruit tree maintenance calendars which are tremendously useful).

Plant Well-Adapted Varieties

Fruit tree adaptation is also very regional. Varieties and types that are well-adapted to your area should produce the best quality fruit and also offer better resistance to the most common diseases.

• Apples like Liberty, Redfree and Enterprise resist Scab, Mildew, Cedar Apple Rust and Fire Blight.
• Honeysweet and Kieffer are two of several pears that resist Fire Blight. Many Asian pears also resist Fire Blight.
• Although they might not offer the quality of some of the best peaches, Q 1-8 and Frost are resistant to Peach Leaf Curl.
• And there are many more disease-resistant fruit varieties.
• Because dwarf fruit trees are easier to maintain and spray, they are also good options where diseases are challenging. Some rootstocks provide resistance to soilborne diseases.

Proper Growing Conditions

Most fruit trees need full sun for at least 6 hours a day, well-drained soil, regular water and proper fertilization to produce quality crops. Too much shade, overwatering, poorly drained soils and too much nitrogen can promote disease. Fruit thinning is necessary to obtain acceptable fruit size in most tree fruit. It’s also a good chance to remove infected fruit that may spread disease. Choosing the proper planting site and providing the right care will go a long way to ensure a successful harvest.

Timely Pruning

Proper pruning opens trees to air circulation, drying and light, which can help prevent many diseases. It also removes diseased branches, preventing further infection. When you prune can be as important as how you prune. Most pruning is done during the dormant season, but summer pruning helps control tree size, encourages air circulation and is also a good time to remove diseased plant parts. Pruning during dry weather can also prevent the spread of disease. In California, for example, apricots are pruned in summer to prevent Eutypa Dieback, which can be spread through pruning cuts by winter rains. With some diseases, including Fire Blight, it’s important to sterilize shears with a 10% bleach solution after each cut.

Sanitation

Raking up and discarding dropped leaves and prunings, along with removing mummies (unpicked fruit) from trees, goes a long way in disrupting disease cycles from year to year.

Control Vectors

Not many fruit tree diseases are transmitted by insects, but there is one very important exception: the Asian Citrus Psyllid (ACP) and Citrus Greening Disease (known as Huanglongbing or HLB in the West). Controlling ACP is critical in controlling this devastating citrus disease, which has no cure. There are quarantines in place in primary citrus-growing states such as Florida and California. The insect threatens citrus in all citrus growing regions.

Protection From Insects

Controlling diseases of fruit trees usually takes multiple approaches, including fungicidal or bacterial sprays. Proper timing of these sprays is critically important. Dormant sprays can help control insects and disease in winter. A drench product like BioAdvanced™ Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control* provides season-long protection without spraying and kills ACP. Always be sure to read and follow label instructions.

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Pruning Trees – When To Trim Trees Successfully

Written by Admin and published on https://www.bioadvanced.com/

As leaves fall from the trees each autumn, branches formerly covered in a canopy of dense foliage come out of hiding. Although many gardeners would rather never deal with the falling mess of leaves, I relish this time as an opportunity to inspect each tree canopy. It’s now that I carefully make note of any branches I may need to remove from my trees. Taking advantage of these dormant months gives me time to develop a plan for pruning and trimming trees in my landscaping.

Pruning: Trimming A Tree Successfully

Typically you’ll tackle tree trimming for three reasons: safety, tree health and tree aesthetics. Pruning can accomplish many goals, including:

• Removing dead wood
• Trimming branches that obscure driving views
• Removing diseased or insect-infested branches
• Increasing airflow inside a tree crown (especially important in windy areas)
• Allowing light to penetrate to the ground below
• Removing branches that rub against one another
• Limiting branches growing into utility lines (never prune limbs near utility lines – call your local utility company)
• Enhancing a tree’s appearance

Outdoor ornamentals trees and shrubs and containerized plants. This product is only for non-bearing fruit and nut trees. Non-bearing fruits and nuts are plants that do not bear edible fruits and nuts for at least 12 months after application of pesticides.

Shrubs: 3 ounces for every 1 foot of height.

Single Trunk: 1 ounce of product mixed with 1 gallon of water for every 1 inch around tree trunk.

Multiple Trunks: Measure distance in inches around each tree trunk, add together, and multiply by 0.75. This measurement is the number of ounces of product to add to one gallon of water.

Containerized Plants: 1+2/3 tablespoons of product into sufficient water to wet the potting soil thoroughly.

Trimming Principles

A tree isn’t like a shrub that might require routine thinning. Because trimming permanently changes a tree’s structure and appearance, you want to trim intentionally. The most beautiful mature trees undergo intentional trimming when they’re young. Although the general principles of trimming are the same regardless of the size of the tree, here are some other tips for trimming young trees.

When trimming mature trees, always have a purpose for making cuts. Trees recover more easily from smaller wounds than larger ones. That means it’s always better to remove smaller branches. Follow these guidelines, provided by the U.S. Forest Service.

• For branches less than 2 inches in diameter, make the cut.
• For branches 2-4 inches in diameter, think twice before cutting.
• For branches more than 4 inches in diameter, cut only if you have a very good reason.
• Never remove more than one-fourth of a tree’s total leaf-bearing capacity.

Types of Trimming Cuts

Whether you’re dealing with young or mature trees, trimming cuts fall into two categories: thinning or heading.

Thinning cutsremove an entire branch or prune one branch back to another branch. These cuts stimulate growth throughout the whole tree and often remove weak, diseased or problem growth. You also use thinning cuts when you want to improve air circulation in a tree canopy or enhance light penetration to interior leaves or the ground below. Thinning enhances a tree’s natural shape.

Heading cutsreduce tree height by cutting ends of lateral branches back to a set of buds that in turn start growing as a result of the pruning. Heading cuts destroy a tree’s natural shape and are very hard – if not impossible – to correct. Don’t use heading cuts on branches over a year old.

The Problems With Topping

When done in the worst possible way, heading cuts are known as topping. This is the most common trimming error and the most damaging to tree health. Topping reduces overall tree size by cutting branches and even the main trunk back to stubs. Topping can also occur naturally when heavy winds break the tallest growing point in a canopy.

Topping removes significant portions of the leaf-bearing crown, which causes the tree to enter starvation mode. Many buds quickly produce shoots to replace the lost leaves. These shoots cluster together and are spindly, weak and prone to breaking in windstorms. They also require frequent trimming.

The practice of topping creates large, gaping wounds that trees struggle to seal. These wounds form openings for decay or disease organisms, which can quickly move throughout a tree. Decaying stubs in turn create weak points in the branch structure.

Topping (see photo above) is a terrible trimming practice. There are other trimming methods that reduce the height of a mature tree while protecting it and preserving its beauty, as shown in the illustration below. Contact a certified arborist for help.

Make Proper Cuts

To perform heading cuts on young branches, make the cut one-quarter inch above a lateral bud. Slope the cut down and away from the bud.

To make thinning cuts on larger branches, cut outside the branch collar at a 45-to 60-degree angle to the branch bark ridge.

• If you’re cutting limbs larger than 1 inch in diameter, follow a three-cut procedure to first reduce limb weight and avoid tearing bark.
• Make an undercut about halfway through the branch 12-18 inches away from where the branch joins its supporting structure.
• Then cut from the top of the branch a few inches beyond the first cut (farther out on the limb). The weight of the limb will cause it to break between the cuts.
• Remove the stub by placing a cut outside the branch collar at a 45-to 60-degree angle to the branch bark ridge.

Do not apply paint or wound dressing to cuts. Trees heal trimming wounds best when left to do so naturally.

Call A Professional

In general, it’s best to call a certified arborist if you’re trimming trees taller than 10-15 feet, if you need to use a chain saw or if you plan to use a ladder. If you have some experience trimming trees, you may be able to use a rope saw on limbs higher than 15 feet, but it’s always best to err on the side of caution, especially if falling limbs could damage property. Understand that limbs and branches represent significant weight. Even a 1-inch-diameter limb, if it’s long enough and high enough, can thud to the ground with enough force to knock a person down.

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Planting Trees in Fall: Guide And Tips for Success

Written by Admin and published on https://thisismygarden.com/

Fall is a great time to plant trees and shrubs. You can take advantage of sales at your local nursery and add some dimension to your yard’s landscape. You can even give your new plants a jump start for next spring with proper preparation.

Planting new trees and shrubs in the fall takes advantage of favorable soil temperatures and moisture conditions that promote root growth. It also gives them a chance to establish root systems before they need to collect water and nutrients for leaf production.

4 Big Keys To Planting Trees Successfully This Fall!

There is simply no better time to plant trees than in the cool, crisp air of autumn.

Whether dealing with fruit, nut, shade or ornamental trees, fall planting gives a tree’s root structure time to gently acclimate to the soil before going dormant for the winter.

Amending the soil with compost or aged manure is a great way to provide nutrients to newly planted trees.

Although trees can be planted nearly anytime the ground is not frozen, the high heat of summer and the wild swing of temperatures throughout spring can be stressful to a newly planted tree.

However, in the cooler fall weather, without the scorching heat or constant freezing and thawing, roots have an easier time settling into the soil. As spring returns, they come out of their dormant state ready to grow and flourish.

Here are a four big keys to successfully planting trees in your landscape this fall.

4 Key Tips To Planting Trees This Fall

Dig Wide and Deep

One of the biggest mistakes made when planting trees is not digging the hole large enough.

Dig planting holes 2 times the diameter of the root ball, and 4 to 6″ deeper

Digging to a larger size helps break up the soil, making it easier for trees to spread their roots.

The loose soil is also important for forming air pockets and channels in the soil. These are vital to bring both air, water and nutrients to the root zone.

Planting holes should be dug at two times the circumference, and 6 inches deeper than the root ball. This allows plenty of room for expansion of the roots.

It is important to note that you will not be planting the tree down 4 to 6 inches into the soil. This depth is purely to help break up the hardened earth under the root ball for roots to expand.

Amend The Soil

Once the hole is dug, its extremely important to amend the soil. Especially if the soil is clay or hardened earth.

When it comes to trees, two of the best amendments to add are compost and aged manure.

Compost has the perfect balance of nutrients that can feed a tree slowly over time. When mixed with the existing soil, around the tree, it helps to keep soil loose and energized.

Aged manure is teeming with life, and much like compost, when incorporated into the soil, it creates a super-soil for trees to flourish.

A few five gallon buckets of either, or a mixture of both mixed into the soil when planting is more than enough to do the trick.

When planting, place 6 inches of the loose soil mix back into the bottom of the hole. This will provide a loose mix for the root ball to nestle on and expand in.

It also ensures that the crown of the tree will be slightly above the soil line when planting.

Finish by adding the rest of the mix to fill in and around the tree.

Mulch

Don’t forget to mulch!

Once planted, a thick 3 to 4″ coating of mulch will help to keep the plant protected. Mulch not only helps to conserve water, it also helps prevent competing weeds at bay.

Perhaps best of all, it helps keep the soil temperature regulated, and provides valuable insulation throughout winter.

Watering

Water bags are a great way to provide water to trees on a slow-release basis.

Just because the weather is cooler in the fall, it doesn’t mean your trees won’t need watering.

The single biggest reason trees fail in their first year is improper watering. That can be because of not enough water, or too much.

On average, a typical 5 to 10 gallon, 1 to 2″ thick diameter (trunk) transplanted tree requires 10 to 15 gallons of water per week during their first year of growth. 

That means watering with about 5 gallons of water every 2 to 3 days. Especially if mother nature isn’t helping provide any. This excludes of course wintertime when the tree is dormant.

Watering more than this can actually be detrimental to the trees health and growth. Roots can become water-logged, and fail to take in needed nutrients.

After a full year, the roots of the tree should be fully established. At that point, watering is only needed if mother nature fails to provide rain for weeks at  a time, or in times of extreme heat.

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Spraying Weedkiller: Controlling Weeds Around Trees

Written by Admin and published on https://thisismygarden.com/

Killing weeds is easy with contact sprays. Wherever the weed killer lands, your weeding job is nearly done. But weed killer does not always distinguish between valuable landscape plants, favorite flowers and the weeds you want to remove. To ensure you do not accidentally harm desirable plants with weed killer, try some of these no-miss tips.

Many spray-on weed killers are a type of post-emergent herbicide and contain the active ingredient glyphosate, which does not discriminate between weeds and desirable plants. This type of herbicide simply kills plants it contacts.

The Dangers of Spraying Weedkiller To The Trees & Plants In Your Yard

When it comes to spraying weedkiller around trees and throughout your landscape, it may be more dangerous to existing plants than you might think.

Beyond weedkillers harmful effects to bees and important pollinators, and their possible contamination to wells and nearby water supplies – they can also be quite harmful to the long-term health of trees, shrubs and perennials in your landscape.

Especially when sprayed in excessive amounts around the entire root zones of trees and plants.

How Spraying Weedkiller Can Be Harmful To Existing Trees & Plants

Weedkillers works via foliar absorption. When sprayed onto the leaves of plants, the chemical is then absorbed into the plant. For that very reason, many use it right up onto the base of trees and bushes, thinking it cannot harm these non-leaf areas.

But there are two problems with that concept. One is that many trees and shrubs send up small shoots in the root zone nearby. And these shoots, with their tiny foliage, can indeed absorb the chemical and injure the tree.

The second issue is that by spraying and defoliating large areas around trees and bushes, the bare ground exposes the root zones to massive moisture loss.

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Without any mulch or ground cover around a tree, the sun can quickly dry out the soil, and the roots below. This can be especially detrimental to newly planted or young trees.

Alternatives To Spraying Weedkiller

So what are the best alternatives to spraying herbicides to control weeds around trees, plants and hardscape areas? Well, that all depends on what and where you will be spraying.

Controlling Weeds Around Trees & Plants

When it comes to keeping weeds out of flowerbeds, and away from trees and shrubs, nothing works better than a heavy coating of mulch.

Mulch not only insulates and protect plant’s root systems, it also helps conserve moisture. To be effective for weed control, mulch must be applied at least 4 to 6″ deep around trees and shrubs.

And if you don’t want to mulch around trees, simply using a string trimmer to keep weeds and grass down is the best answer. That patch of grass under the trees is vital to keeping moisture to the trees!

Driveways, Walkways & Patios

For hardscape areas like walkways and driveways, horticultural vinegar is an excellent option vs. spraying weedkiller. The higher acidity of horticultural vinegar (30%) compared to store-bought vinegar (5%) serves as an effective weed killer. 

Another great option in these non-growing areas is a weed torch. Weed torches make quick work of burning out weeds without the need to spray anything at all.

They work by using propane to fire up a flaming tip to burn weeds to the ground. In addition to working for weeds, they also make a great fire pit starter!

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